Antarctica
My Seventh Continent!
10 Day The Great White Continent
on M.V. Seabourn Pursuit to/from Ushuaia, Argentina
November 26, 2024 to December 6, 2024
“I’m going on a cruise to Antarctica over Thanksgiving!”
“Why are you going there? You don't like cold weather!” Many people responded this way when I told them my exciting news. It seems my family and friends know me well. My answer: “The seventh continent. Going to Antarctica will be the last continent and then I will have been to all seven.”
“Oh.” And they understand, fully aware of my quest to visit 100 countries and join the Travel Century Club (I’m at 76 after this trip). Another interesting comment I received: “Isn't it winter there?”
No, I’d say. It's summer on the other side of the hemisphere. Only 3 people out of dozens knew this, one of them my nephew who is a meteorologist. Antarctica trips on cruise ships are only possible November-March. The ice is too thick for the ships to sail through during the winter. Plus, the temperature is warmer (ranged from 25-30 degrees Fahrenheit or -3.89 to -1.1 Centigrade) and the sun goes behind the horizon for only for a few hours a day.
The next question people asked is: “How do you get there to take the ship?”
You fly to Buenos Aires, a ten-and-a-half-hour flight out of New York. Next, when traveling with Seabourn Cruises, you continue on a charter aircraft (included in the price) to Ushuaia, at the tip of Argentina in South America. Another 3 and a half hours. Then you board the ship, leaving Ushuaia through the Beagle Channel and out into open sea (Drake's Passage) for 2 days before reaching the Antarctic peninsula.
From my fashionista friends: “What do you wear? Heavy coats, boots? How do you know what to take with you?” The cruise line provides a packing list, and a company to buy everything you need from if you want to take the easy and probably more expensive way out. The cruise line provides parkas, waterproof bags, beanies and boots. You keep everything but the boots.
Some people had heard of the “cruise by” ships that travel the destination. “Do you actually step on land?” Yes. Ships cannot carry more than 500 passengers to be allowed to make landings on the continent. Only 100 people can be off the ship at any one time.
The more well-traveled friends inquired: “Which cruise line? What is the ship like?” Seabourn is a luxury cruise line, sailing a 264-passenger ship called the Pursuit (among others), which was brand new in 2023, to Antarctica. I let my buddies know I expected to do quite a bit of lounging, eating, and drinking while on my expedition.
Everyone wished for me to have a wonderful time, joked about me staying warm. I received assurances my followers were looking forward to the photos and Facebook posts.
NOVEMBER 23-24
TRAVEL DAY/BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA
My travel companion for this trip, Lois, came by my place about 430pm Saturday and we caught the LIRR on 48th and Madison to Jamaica, Queens. The AirTrain to JFK leaves from there. Smooth, easy, elevators and escalators for transporting luggage. The total cost is $14.00 for seniors one way. We got to the airport (really early for me) 645pm for our non-stop 1010pm flight on American Airlines.
Ended up eating at Bobby Van’s steakhouse after we checked our luggage and went through security. Lois had brought a bag of food to cater to her Whole Food Plant Based diet as long as it lasted.
We had decided to leave a day early and spend an extra night in Buenos Aires to recover from the flight and allow extra time in case of travel snafus and (heaven forbid) delayed luggage. The flight left on time. I upgraded to comfort plus but Lois stayed in coach. I switched to a different aisle seat so a family could sit together and had a pleasant conversation with a woman from Buenos Aires who had just been visiting New York City for her birthday, by herself, for a week. She loves New York. She feels the energy.
I watched Killers of the Flower Moon on the flight. Perfect time for a three-and-a-
half-hour-long movie. Sadly, I did not sleep at all. Relaxed, closed my eyes, listened to some music. The food was decent. I had a beef dinner with mashed potatoes and salad, cheese and crackers and cheesecake for dessert. Breakfast was vanilla yogurt with granola and fruit. At least we got something to eat. Lois said there was no meal, only snacks in coach. Pack your own food.
ARRIVAL IN BUENOS AIRES
Buenos Aires is 2 hours ahead of New York and we arrived at 11am Argentina time. We got assigned to a short line for passport control and passed through quickly. (Tip: There is a bathroom right before the line begins.) The customs agent asked which hotel we were staying at and he wanted to see our boarding passes. No stamp.
Lois’s suitcase came out quickly; mine didn’t even though it had a priority tag for my gold status. It finally popped out on the luggage carousel, unharmed, and that's all that mattered. We had to stand in line again to go through an agriculture inspection and you put all your bags through another machine.
Seabourn representatives in orange shirts holding Seabourn signs were waiting for us outside the customs area and they checked our name off the list. Porters wearing blue T-shirts grabbed our luggage and took it out to the van. Once we gathered all of our group, we were immediately escorted to an air-conditioned van for the 40-minute ride to the hotel. Traffic moved quickly on a Sunday afternoon. We passed city scenes along the way.
Once we arrived at the Alvear Palace Hotel, there was a Seabourn hospitality desk next to the check-in desk, but they were only dealing with passengers who were leaving on the Seabourn Venture the next day. All we had to do was check into our hotel room. It’s 1pm so of course it’s not ready. They stored our luggage in a big ballroom on the first floor and gave us a tag. We were able to go and get things out
of our luggage or drop additional items off easily with no problems.
We had lunch at the hotel in the Lobby Bar. Celebrities of Buenos Aires society and businessmen have been meeting here since 1932! Definitely a spot to see and be seen! Our lovely waiter spoke perfect English and treated us to impeccable service. Lois had a kale and quinoa and pumpkin salad which she really liked - the kale was crispy and had good flavor. I ate a chicken Panini with cheese, chicken, tomato, lettuce. The cappuccino had fancy latte art and was accompanied by a tray of 4 mini sweet treats. Yum.
We had noticed a street fair happening two blocks from our hotel so Lois said let’s go there after lunch. On the way we saw a park filled with banyan trees and had to take advantage of the photo op.
We headed toward the first row of vendors. I have never seen such a large outdoor market in my life. We browsed there for 2 hours! Friendly salespeople offered handcrafted art, jewelry, magnets, belts, paintings, masks, matte cups, stuffed animals, T-shirts and more. Most of the sellers spoke a little English, and we speak enough Spanish to shop! The exchange rate was easy - $1.00 equals 1000 Argentinian pesos. Everywhere we stopped took American dollars in cash, some took credit cards. I bought earrings and a Christmas ornament. Lois found a nice leather belt. I later looked up this event and found it is a popular artisan fair known as the “Feria de Artesanos.” The fair typically features 100 to 200 vendors.
Exhausted from the 90-degree heat and long day of travel, I plopped on a bench and watched kids juggling, playing ball, sitting on blankets anywhere you could find a piece of shade.
Finally, it was 4pm and we got the text that our room was ready. A bellhop handled the luggage. We jumped for joy when we opened the door and discovered we had been assigned a two-bedroom two-bathroom suite! Bigger than our separate apartments in New York City put together!
I immediately crashed, clothes and all, and slept for three hours. When I woke up, Lois had left a note that she was going out so I texted her about plans for dinner.
She told me to order from room service if I wanted because she had picked up
some things from the grocery store for herself. There’s a QR code on the desk
for the menu. Then dial zero. The woman who answered spoke English. I ordered a chicken Caesar salad accompanied by a ham and cheese empanada. Vanilla ice cream and lemon sorbet for dessert, which they conveniently brought about 20 minutes after they delivered the meal! That is service!
Lois came back and shared she had gotten caught in a surprise downpour, but luckily, she had an umbrella. We ate dinner and chatted about tomorrow’s plans and finally went to sleep.
NOVEMBER 25
SIGHTSEEING IN BUENOS AIRES
The breakfast buffet surpassed expectations. Croissants and other pastries, fruit, mushrooms, eggs, yogurt, cereal, oatmeal, meat, cheese, loose leaf tea, cappuccino. The chef and the maître d were obviously proud of their work.
After breakfast we went into the Seabourn Pursuit hospitality room to check in for our cruise. Found out we were upgraded to a higher category suite on Deck 7! Yay!
Time to go explore some more. The temperature outside was 80 degrees. We walked to Recoleta Cemetery, 10 minutes from our hotel. Tickets were easily available to purchase with a credit card inside the office and cost as of this writing about $16.00. This final resting place of Eva Peron is one of the most famous cemeteries in the world, so it is a required stop when visiting Buenos Aires. Once inside, we tour bombed an English-speaking guide to learn a few things then wandered among the architectural and historical wonders by ourselves.
After taking dozens of photos and having a short rest in the shadow of Pablo Emilio Escobar, we left the cemetery in search of a snack and something cold to drink. We ended up at Gontran Cherrier, Artisan Boulanger – Paris on President Roberto M. Ortiz 1815. A great choice. I had carrot cake and sparkling water, Lois had hibiscus tea and some of her crackers.
Next, we took an Uber to the Japanese Gardens. General admission tickets cost 4500 Argentinian pesos for non-residents. The Jardín Japonés is open daily from 10am to 645pm. It is managed by the Fundación Cultural Argentino Japonesa, which oversees preservation and maintenance.
Everywhere you looked vibrant shapes and colors popped. Dark green bonsai trees spread majestically across the light green grass. Purple and pink and red and yellow flowers decorated the hills. Couples snapped selfies on bridges and decks. Lois and I joined the queues and took other people’s photos after they took ours. We searched for the pond with the biggest school of koi fish.
Yasuo Inomata, a renowned Japanese landscape architect, designed the gardens. There is a small shopping area, an outdoor food tent and a restaurant in the complex. We went up on the observation deck, got a few more photos and called another Uber ($10), headed to the Yacht Club to sightsee along the Rio de la Plata (River of Silver).
The Yacht Club wasn’t open so we followed the crowd to more populated areas. Restaurants lined the boardwalk. We began looking at menus and decided on Dandy, right across from the Hilton. I had a glass of prosecco and a salad. Lois had a veggie panini.
When we stepped outside after lunch we heard music, so we followed it and found a DJ playing tunes. Turning my head to the right I screamed, “A Santiago Calatrava bridge!” Lois was impressed with my knowledge. This architect’s style is easily recognizable. I have seen his bridges in Bilbao, Spain, Venice, Italy and Dallas, Texas.
We got closer and read the plaque. It is a pedestrian walkway named Puente de la Mujer (Women’s Bridge). The Buenos Aires Tourism website says the design represents a couple dancing the tango. The mast is the man and the curve of the bridge is the woman. To me it looked like a sailboat, or airplane. You make your own interpretation.
Families, couples and friends were taking selfies and enjoying the warm weather. A twosome began dancing the tango. We soaked in the sun and the vibe knowing we were going soon to the parka-required frozen tundra of Antarctica.
After we got tired of walking along the water, we backtracked to the Hilton to make it easier for the Uber driver to find us and ran right into a convention of surgeons! We dilly dallied for a few minutes “admiring the art,” to see if there might be any interesting prospects to chat up. Alas, no gorgeous male studs showed themselves. We were pleasantly surprised to see the large number of women attending the conference.
Lois had been looking for dinner options while I rested, but she couldn’t decide on anything. I said let’s see if there are any good vegan restaurants. I knew that would most likely have some food she could eat, and I’m of the opinion if food tastes good, I like it. Doesn’t have to be meat. I did a search on google maps and a Michelin ranked vegan restaurant named Gioia Cocina Botanica was located in the Park Hyatt hotel. 10-minute walk. Our route took us through a nice neighborhood with attentive policemen on patrol. The entrance was up a half flight of stairs to the left.
We hadn’t made a reservation but luckily the restaurant wasn’t too busy. The high humidity threatened rain, but we took a chance and opted to sit outside. (I loved placing my purse in the provided purse holder.)
Twinkly white lights shone among terraced hedges and created a magical atmosphere. Our waiter was a cutie pie and we deliberately kept talking to him to enjoy the eye candy.
We selected the chef’s choice 6 course tasting menu of vegetables, mushrooms, legumes, grains and dessert. Delicioso!
Our luggage had to be outside our hotel room for pick up by Seabourn before 10pm, so we rushed a little bit at the end of dinner. We made it back in time to pack and turned in. Had to be in the lobby at 6am to catch our bus to the airport for an 8am domestic charter flight.
NOVEMBER 26
FLIGHT TO USHUAIA, BOARDING THE SEABOURN PURSUIT
Couldn't sleep last night, worried about missing the flight. Up before sunrise. Breakfast this morning courtesy of Seabourn was a disappointment after the bountiful buffet at the hotel yesterday. The hospitality suite offered barely more than tiny croissants, cheese, corn flakes, coffee, regular milk (no non-dairy options). Seabourn should work something out with the hotel to offer better options for breakfast knowing that their clients are getting up at 4am to catch a flight and will be en route to the ship for most of the day.
The process to get on the bus to the airport was organized. Everyone was assigned a bus number. You can store hand luggage below on the bus or carry small bags on. They check you off the list. I had fallen asleep when we arrived at the domestic airport (Aeroparque Jorge Newbery) 15 minutes later.
Going through security was a breeze. The Argentinian TSA Agents did not want to see your one-liter baggie crammed with 3.4-ounce liquids. I saw someone put through a backpack with a full bottle of water in the side pocket. He was not stopped. All the agents do is check your passport and say hello and if you don’t beep you move on. Seabourn reps were there guiding us on the way.
Our flight was leaving from gate 3. Walking to a less busy bathroom, I discovered a Priority Pass lounge. I asked Lois if she wanted to check it out. She did. I presented my card and our boarding passes and we went in. Happily, we snagged chia pudding with non-dairy milk, strawberries, blueberries and club soda. They didn’t offer bottled water, only water machines. We found 2 empty counter seats and ate quickly as we only had 30 minutes before departure.
We had to wait 20 minutes in an airless room for a bus from the terminal to take us to the plane. Knowing we would all be on the same ship soon, we started getting acquainted with our fellow passengers. M and J were from the Lake Tahoe area, and had recently attended their daughter’s wedding in Buenos Aires to an Argentinian man. They are retired so it made sense while they were in South America to do the bucket list trip to Antarctica.
Finally, the bus arrived. We were on that bus for 20 minutes, I swear, before we got to the JetSmart airplane. There was no jet bridge and a lot of stairs leading up to the aircraft.
I have no complaints about the flight and the flight attendants. We were offered yogurt, a ham and cheese sandwich, a piece of chocolate and some water. If you can eat that at least you won’t starve. The plane had three seats on both sides of a middle aisle but we were lucky and got an empty seat between us. I slept most of the 3-and-a-half-hour flight.
When the plane landed and taxied to the gate, I felt like I was driving up to my Swiss chalet in Zermatt. Ushuaia has that same ski scene vibe, with the snowcapped Martial Mountains in the distance. Located at the bottom tip of South America, it is the southernmost city in the world.
At the airport, we found our luggage and were guided to our bus. The first stop was the Ushuaia sign, for a photo op. (I love it that tour guides are also practiced photographers.)
Then we got dropped off downtown and told to be back in an hour. Street signs advertised snowboarding, skiing and seafood. People on the street were decked out in puffer coats and mittens. Lois and I saw an Eva Peron exhibit and a town amphitheater. We went into a souvenir shop, and made a bathroom stop at Patagonia.
My mascota Ed, snuggling with a fuzzy bear to keep warm. Time to get back on the bus and board the ship!
We couldn’t get off the bus right away. It was raining and the line was moving slowly. They didn’t want us to stand outside. New Seabourn reps came on the bus to check our passports and gave us a pass number. Waiting on the gangway, we started meeting members of the expedition team. Mr. J helped me with my carry-on bag and Nicki, the team leader, chatted. I learned she’s from Germany.
Cleared security (another passport check so don’t put it away) and went to the Discovery Center (DC). More members of the 20-person expedition team are set up to take your picture and prepare your door key. (Tip: Keep key in the slot by the door for all of the electricity to work in your room.) We also met Dave, the Cruise Director, who happened to be from New York City!
They told us lunch was being served in the Colonnade (the buffet style restaurant on Deck 5) until 3pm. It was 215pm. Our luggage hadn’t been delivered yet, so we went to lunch. We kept asking who should we talk to about Lois’s dietary needs. Each person we asked said Mr. S handles special requests. We couldn’t find him.
At 4pm we had to go back to the DC for the muster drill (safety procedures). We watched a safety video in the room. (Somehow they know you watched it.) In person, each team member introduced themselves. People talked for over an hour about expeditions and landings and kayaks and submarines. I fell asleep at least twice.
Back to the room. Our luggage arrived and we started unpacking. Our cabin attendant came by to introduce herself, carrying 2 mimosas. Lois doesn’t drink alcohol and I don’t drink orange juice. We asked her to come back with a glass of champagne and water. She did. She also brought a bottle of champagne for me to put in the fridge. Liquor is included in the fare and you can ask for two options to be kept in your fridge or wet bar. There is a metal water bottle for each guest to refill at water stations throughout the ship. Two full plastic water bottles for the room were also provided.
Some more photos of the room.
At 615pm, we went out on the bow to watch the sail away and took our Titanic pose shots.
Time to navigate inside the ship! We decided the best observation point is on Deck 6, forward, the Bow Lounge. You can see electronic maps that track the Pursuit in real time and show the sea topography.
Aft on Deck 6 is Seabourn Square, a popular hangout area, especially after excursions. Comfy chairs and couches are strategically placed to enjoy the picture window views. The walls are hung with art you want to talk about. Guest services, games and a library are located there. A barista will serve you gelato, sandwiches, cookies, cake, and hot tea and coffee until 6pm.
We headed up to Deck 9, the Constellation Lounge, for the sail away party. Music and snacks. We saw M and J sitting at the bar and joined them. I ordered a vodka martini. (Never been on a ship where you didn’t have to sign a bill for every drink!) Lois began chatting with C, who was sitting with M and J, and it turned out C is the head chef’s girlfriend! Lois told her about the dietary issues and we think she whispered something into the chef’s ear because he came to our table the next morning to set up an appointment to talk with Lois.
After such a long day, we had barely enough energy left to eat. The steak I ordered had too much gristle and I sent it back. Lois didn’t like what she ordered either. I ended up eating a Caesar salad and chocolate mousse. The staff said they were restocking supplies today after the last cruise and the food should be better in the future. Not a good way to start the fine dining portion of the cruise. I hope it improves. At least we were treated to a beautiful sunset on the way out of the Beagle Channel leaving Ushuaia.
NOVEMBER 27
DRAKE’S PASSAGE
The waves are 9 feet high now (3 meters) and many people are seasick, including Lois. I had been pre-medicating for 2 days with Bonine. When I started feeling slightly queasy, I put powdered ginger under my tongue, let it melt, and swallowed it down. All better.
I went to the 11am IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators) briefing. They told us the waves on the Drake Passage could get as high as 30 feet (or 9 meters). I can’t imagine waves that immense and I’m at their mercy on a small ship in the open seas. Yikes. We were lucky.
The team shared the nationalities aboard our sailing. We have people from Turkey, South Africa, Croatia, Romania, Singapore, Belgium, Mexico, Malaysia, UK, Australia, Thailand, Canada, Netherlands, USA. Americans are the largest group at 138. There are a total of 244 guests and 243 crew members.
A young woman started talking to me after the presentation and I invited her to lunch. She wanted a hot dog and I was in the mood for a burger. The buffet theme at the Colonnade today was Chinese, but the hostess said we could order from The Restaurant menu (more formal dining on Deck 4) instead.
Bernie and I had a lovely conversation. She’s a paramedic from Kent, England and has been to India, Sri Lanka, and Thailand. She was traveling to Antarctica alone and came because she caught a good sale on Seabourn. After lunch, I went back to the room. Lois still wasn't feeling great. She went to the kayak briefing and I took a two-hour nap. I went to my scheduled massage at 415pm.
Fortune smiled on me and gave me Agnes, a petite Filipino woman, as my masseuse. She focused on my neck and traps and soon had me as loose as a rag doll. Soft music played in the room. The massage bed was heated. The massage oil was heated. No speaking except to let her know if the pressure was too hard or too soft. She used her fingers, elbows and fists to detangle the knots in my body.
The next activity was the Captain’s Reception in the DC. There were bartenders with trays of drinks. I had a Kir Royale, which is prosecco and crème de cassis. (I drank them a lot when I lived in France.) Magnifique!
All of the staff came up on stage.
The Captain told us we were making good headway through the Drake Passage because the waves were low, and we might be able to do an additional landing tomorrow. Too bad Lois didn’t have the same opinion about the waves rocking the ship.
The Restaurant was serving a special 6 course dinner for Captain’s Night, but I ended up eating by myself with my animal friend Ed and reading my book. Pleasant conversation with the servers. I didn’t like the soup so I sent it back. The Dover sole was drowning in a white caper sauce, but luckily it was a huge fillet, and I slid the pieces with the sauce off and ate the tender meat underneath.
I checked on Lois again. She didn’t mind if I went to the entertainment, which was Dave doing a one-man show. He is a fantastic singer and storyteller. People would be gathering afterward, he said, in The Club (Deck 9 aft) so I stopped by. J and B (who I met on the Seabourn Pursuit Facebook page) were at a table and invited me to join. I tried the Cognac available at the bar but didn’t like it. I switched to Glenfiddich. Turned out B worked for a large major bank and had a fun story to tell about the agency I worked for before I retired. Small world. I came back to the room about 1130pm.
NOVEMBER 28
HAPPY THANKSGIVING!! 🍁
The waves have calmed down and Lois is feeling better. She has met with the chef again and learned that there are always vegan options for dinner on The Restaurant menu; veggies and beans will be available on the Colonnade buffet. If she asks, at each meal, he will create a dish as close as he can get to a Whole Food Plant Based diet with the ingredients on hand. He told us that we would have needed to make a special request for food with the Supervisor of Guest Services of Seabourn about 6 weeks in advance of the cruise.
For breakfast, you can order from a small menu of eggs, pancakes, and waffles at the Colonnade if you don’t want to eat at the buffet. I commiserated with a fellow passenger this morning who declared “the scrambled eggs on this buffet are the most watery I've ever seen.” I skipped eggs and had oatmeal for breakfast. You can order fancy coffee too. I got a cappuccino and it was perfect with lots of milk and foam.
After breakfast, the expedition team gave a briefing in hopes that we would be able to make a landing on Half Moon Island. We learned about the 3 different types of penguins we might see on this voyage, about penguin habits and lifestyle, and how to not interact with them while we’re visiting Antarctica. Further rules included that you can’t sit down, kneel down, or put anything at all (tripods) on the ground. Passengers would be divided into 6 color groups for the duration of the cruise, and you disembark when your color is scheduled.
About 2pm, an announcement came over the loudspeaker that the expedition team was cancelling the excursion. After exploring the site for 45 minutes, the winds had become hurricane force and we could not safely land. Instead, we are cruising around Livingston Island. Every time a new formation appears I jump up and take a picture. Icebergs and volcanic rocks and glaciers – oh my!
Amazing! I love having a stateroom with a balcony on a cruise to watch the world go by.
I had skipped lunch at the dining facilities so I ordered room service. Caesar salad with shrimp was very good. I also asked for the cheese and charcuterie plate. It included the savory breadsticks people rave about. Mayonnaise sauce and olives, pearl onions, and mini pickles decorated the plate. I didn’t like the quality of most of the meat. I ate the prosciutto, salami and the cheese. Time for a nap.
We looked forward to celebrating Thanksgiving at dinner this evening. Everyone knew it was an American holiday, even the travelers from other countries. Many people dressed up. I was pleasantly surprised by the menu. We ate turkey and stuffing and mashed potatoes and even pumpkin pie. Thanksgiving just isn’t Thanksgiving without pumpkin pie!
The entertainment for tonight was “Dave and Mike’s Soulful Serenade – an intimate evening of contemporary favorites and timeless classics,” in The Club, Deck 9, Aft. I sat right up front by myself. I noticed another woman I hadn’t seen before sitting alone to my left.
After a sip or two of Glenfiddich I must have thought I was at karaoke, because I couldn’t help singing along to most of the songs. Mike stopped by my table later and teased he was about to give me a mic! I love that the shows on this ship are 45 minutes and then I can call it a night.
NOVEMBER 29
CUVERVILLE ISLAND AND NEKO HARBOUR
I did it! 7th Continent! Stepped foot on Cuverville Island, part of the Antarctic peninsula. According to Wikipedia, this parcel of land was discovered by the Belgian Antarctic Expedition (1897-1899) under Adrien de Gerlache, who named it for Jules de Cuverville, a vice admiral of the French Navy. The island is an important bird area because it supports a colony of about 6500 pairs of Gentoo penguins, the largest for this species on the Antarctic Peninsula. We rode a Zodiac boat a few minutes from the ship to the landing. Then we walked around for an hour observing them in their habitat. Very cool! And the scenery is stunning.
The second stop this afternoon was in Neko Harbour, famous for its spectacular glacier, icebergs, and mountainous terrain. Our Zodiac driver said the glacier is one of the most beautiful sights in Antarctica. After stepping out of the Zodiac, we had to quickly climb up off the shore because the calving glacier can sometimes cause unexpected waves. I was in awe of the natural beauty surrounding me.
Isn't he or she adorable?
Lois at Neko Harbour Glacier
Getting in and out of the Zodiac boats
Lois and I were invited to sit at the Cruise Director’s table tonight for dinner. The NYC connection getting us some perks! I had the honor of sitting next to him and learning more about his life story. Bernie was also at our table! Along with A, Dave's longtime friend who I’d seen at The Club last night, T, a human resources manager in the travel business, and John, an Asian guy traveling solo. I learned that the staff has tables for solos to meet each other at dinner.
T, me, Dave, Lois, John, A, Bernie
Dave asked fun icebreaker questions like “what would be your last meal” and “your last travel destination in life.” My last meal is always lobster and crawfish, my two favorite crustaceans. I chose Morocco because I’ve never been and I once dated a guy from there.
We went back to the room and Lois turned in. I went out later to the Latin Groove Night in The Club, to hear Simon and Valentina sing. Fatigue hit me and I didn’t stay for the full set.
NOVEMBER 30
PETERMANN ISLAND
We started the morning landing on Petermann Island. This island was named for a German-American explorer and geographer, Hermann Petermann. It hosts Gentoo and Adele penguins, blue-eyed shags (birds), seals and other wildlife who live in a rugged and snowy terrain.
The temperature had dropped a few degrees. I felt unsteady on the icy path the expedition team carved out to view the penguins. I was tired and cold so I went back to the ship early. At least I got a pic of Ed on the 7th Continent. All the expedition team members are friendly, and if you need a hand, they will give you one.
WINTER ISLAND/GALINDEZ ISLAND
ICEBERG “GRAVEYARD”
This afternoon we cruised to Winter Island and Galindez Island. Winter Island is located in the South Shetland Islands and was discovered during the British Antarctic Expedition of 1839-1843 during the expedition’s wintering period (hence the name). The location housed one of the first British scientific bases. In 1966, the UK transferred its active Antarctic research from Winter Island to nearby Galindez Island and then sold it to Ukraine, which currently operates the base as its only permanent Antarctic research station.
This excursion was a Zodiac ride inside an “iceberg graveyard.” Because of the air and water currents in these areas, icebergs of all shapes and sizes move around, bump together, and get stuck in “traffic jams.” They don’t melt as quickly when they’re not in open water.
Even though I hadn’t completely recovered from the morning expedition, I thought sitting in a dinghy would be less strenuous so I suited up. Wrong! Riding in the Zodiac boat felt like doing a squat and holding it for 2 hours!
Why, you ask? I’m vertically challenged (5’2”) so my feet couldn't touch the floor flat, I had to angle them. The tube your butt sits on becomes hard and cold. The boat is bouncing around and I’m trying to lean back and hold on to the safety rope.
I asked the driver how much longer after an hour and he said 45 more minutes. Ouch. I told him I was uncomfortable but not to turn around (if someone needs to go back to the ship, they will take you). In the meantime, I took pictures of icebergs.
I AM NOT going on anymore long Zodiac rides. My legs were jelly. I could barely get up the 10 steps to the ship elevator. After popping some Aleve, I turned on the water in the tub. It filled up fast and the water was steamy hot. I hadn’t taken a bath in ages. Heavenly. Thank you to whoever designed Seabourn’s suites.
On the way to dinner, I booked another massage with Agnes for tomorrow. Our housekeeping staff had brought us a guidebook about Antarctica and Lois was reading it from cover to cover and informing me of any pertinent details. She’s interested in wildlife and I’m interested in geography.
We were seated near the front of The Restaurant at dinner this time and heard the Captain announce that conditions were right for sailing through the Lemaire Channel. I hadn’t heard of this geographic marvel before, but the waiters told us it’s worth going outside to see. We cut dinner short and I grabbed my dessert to go.
Headed to our favorite place, the Bow Lounge, to see what all the fuss was about. OMG. Gorgeous. Lois didn’t have her jacket so she watched from the windows, but I had my fleece and went outside long enough to take some photos and darted back inside. The icebergs were so close to the ship it felt like you could reach out and touch them.
Sailing through this passage is one of the top tourist destinations in Antarctica; steep cliffs hem in the iceberg-filled passage, which is 6 miles long and one third of a mile wide at its narrowest point. Besides that first day when we couldn’t land on Half Moon Island, we had been having near perfect weather on this trip.
Neither of us went to the entertainment tonight. “Guess that Tune with Dave and Mike” wasn’t my thing. I figured if I went to bed sooner, I could wake up for the landing tomorrow morning.
DECEMBER 1
PORT CHARCOT/BOOTH ISLAND
Happy Antarctica Day! 🐧 December 1 was the signing date of the Antarctic Treaty in 1959. This international agreement designated Antarctica as a scientific preserve, promoting peaceful cooperation in research and environmental protection. No country is allowed to own any part of Antarctica.
Our excursion time was 910am, so Lois and I got up early and went to the Colonnade for breakfast. We’re on a first name basis now with the servers and my cappuccino appeared. I added a fried egg to my order. The choices of fruit are phenomenal – strawberries, blueberries, kiwi, mangoes, grapefruit, oranges.
Port Charcot was our intended landing this morning. Sources say this harbor was named after the French explorer Jean-Baptiste Charcot, who conducted exploration of the region in the early 20th century. Booth Island was named after Captain Henry Booth, an English naval officer who explored Antarctica during the early 19th century.
The expedition team couldn’t find a safe way for us to land (said the snow shelf was too unstable) so the excursion offered was – you guessed it – a Zodiac boat ride. I almost refused to go but Lois checked how long we would be out and they said 45 minutes. All right. I paid my money. I can do it.
Wind gusts smacked me in the face. The sun chose to hide behind the snarky gray clouds and let the temperature drop. I appreciated the striking scenery and captured dozens of photos, but I breathed a sigh of relief when it was time to go back to the ship.
We stopped at the hot chocolate bar on the way to the room.
We rested a bit and then went downstairs for lunch.
I took a long, under the covers nap after lunch and didn’t go on the afternoon excursion (another Zodiac boat ride). Too cold and windy. Lois went, and told me I had made the right choice to stay in. Many other passengers had skipped it too.
Lois asked if I would like to join her for a specially ordered Indian dinner with a couple she had met from Florida. Sure! I love Indian food! We would meet up with them right after the early evening briefing.
The hostess sat us in the back corner of The Restaurant so the special-order meal wouldn’t be as noticeable to other patrons. (They noticed.) We were served chicken tikka masala, beef and lamb, potato and pea samosas, vegetable dishes with naan and basmati rice. Even though the food didn’t have the exact flavor and spices as in a NYC restaurant (our dinner companions had also been to several Indian restaurants in NYC), I gorged on the samosas and tasty chutney. Lois and Mrs. S had bonded earlier over their knowledge of food and nutrition. Mr. J and I talked about travel.
After dinner, the ship started rolling again. Lois laid down, but didn't sleep well because she ate meat and white rice and flour that she doesn't normally eat. I took Bonine and ginger and went to hear Dave sing and play the piano.
I didn't stay out late and came back to let the ship rock me to sleep.
DECEMBER 2
PORT LOCKROY/DAMOY POINT
Built on Goudier Island, just off the coast of Wiencke Island, Port Lockroy is a year-round British presence in Antarctica. Discovered in 1904 by William Speirs Bruce, it was established as a scientific base in 1944 and closed in 1962. The UK Antarctic Heritage Trust (UKAHT) completed a restoration of the site in 2006 and turned it into a post office, museum and visitor center. We were not allowed on the island (because of bird flu), but the staff came on board to give us a presentation, take showers (!), sell postcards and stamps and some cute Antarctica merchandise.
Today’s presentation started at 8am, so I watched it on TV while getting ready. Lois went down in person and secured us a prime spot in the shopping line after the gift shop was set up. Great to have an early bird roommate sometimes!
The options included hats, pins, Christmas ornaments, magnets, patches, stuffed animals, tee shirts, sweatshirts, tea towels. Be aware the prices are in British pounds so there will be an exchange rate on your credit card. We got what we wanted, dropped it off in the room and had time for breakfast before our Zodiac cruise departure at 930am.
I finally remembered to put my electronic hand warmers in my jacket pockets. This worked perfectly. I could easily take pictures with my iPhone without my gloves on and stick my hands inside the pockets to warm up.
Our driver this time was J. He is the expedition team’s bird expert so he told us a lot about the birds we saw. We also had the opportunity to do an “ice landing.” The Zodiac boat ‘parked’ on a slab of ice with a glacier in the background. J took pictures of us sitting on the edge of the raft.
We got back around 11am. I napped for an hour and then we went to lunch. I chose green beans, lamb, and roasted potatoes from the buffet. A few macadamia nut sugar cookies also snuck onto my plate. (More of those found their way to the room along with an orange.) Another nap until our afternoon excursion departure time of 3pm.
DAMOY POINT
Damoy Point is the northern entrance to Port Lockroy and was discovered by the French Expedition Team under Jean-Baptiste Charcot in 1903-05. Despite the optimal weather conditions, this landing from the Zodiac was tricky. You had to jump out onto a cobblestone shore, then climb a steep hill to get to the penguin viewing areas. There were steps carved into the ice topped with aluminum grates. I had to wait to get a walking pole because they were all being used.
Once I got to the top, I walked over to Damoy Hut, a historic building on the land. Used intermittently from 1973 to 1993, it served as a transit center for personnel and supplies. Now, it’s a museum administered by the UKAHT.
You can go inside and look around rooms frozen in time, as if intrepid explorers were awaiting their next assignment. A tour guide shows you the kitchen, storage facilities and sleeping arrangements. If necessary, the building can be used as an emergency shelter or for short term stays by scientists conducting fieldwork in the region. (We saw a research boat tethered nearby.)
After visiting the hut, I plodded as far as I could toward the penguins. They were further away than at previous stops. But the sun had fully awakened from its slumber and the landscape sparkled. Catching my breath, I twirled (slowly) 360 degrees to take it all in. Sun rays bounced among the nooks and crannies of the snow-covered glacier peaks. Fluffy clouds swirled in the sky. The varied shades of blue icebergs and seawater added to the tableaux. I said a prayer and thanked God for all of his beautiful creations.
Massage scheduled at 445pm; time to go.
Back on the ship, the staff has remarked numerous times how fortunate we have been with the weather this trip. The Captain made a joke about it in his daily announcement: he’s responsible for sailing the ship safely but the guests are responsible for the weather.
Lois and I didn’t like the menu at The Restaurant tonight so we went to the Colonnade. We were surprised to find no buffet set up. Instead, there was a theme night with an “Earth & Ocean” menu. Jackpot! I ordered prosciutto wrapped asparagus, shrimp, and a beef rib dish. The ribs had a lot of fat, but the meat was tender and flavorful. Two jumbo shrimp with their heads on were sliced in half and covered with cheese and breadcrumbs. Good old-fashioned tartar sauce to dip them in.
Lois ordered garlic spinach and a chef’s choice from JP. He made her a vegan dessert! I needed to catch up on journaling so didn’t go to the entertainment tonight, Iconic American Songwriters with Mike Lee.
DECEMBER 3
DANCO ISLAND
This morning, we landed at Danco Island, charted by the British Graham Land Expedition under the leadership of John Rymill from 1934 to 1937. I had already planned to skip the 810am-too-early-for-me landing time, so I pre-ordered room service for 9am with the tag you hang on your door the night before. Also, the briefing had indicated there would be a steep icy path to see the penguins, and if you have walking poles, please bring them. No thank you. Lois came back early, said there was too much risk of falling. She got a cool photo with Seabourn's Antarctica Flag.
The icy uphill path I chose to skip!
After breakfast, we stopped by the gift shop again to see if there was anything we else we wanted to purchase with our remaining onboard credit. Here’s a photo of the sundries available and one of Ed communing with some penguin friends.
As we sailed to our next port of call, Seabourn staff treated us to the “Caviar on Ice” event outside on the pool deck at 1145am. The sun shone brightly and the crisp clean air was warm enough to stand outside without totally bundling up. My shipmates and I toasted to a superb vacation and shared our sorrow that the cruise was almost over.
CHIRIGUANO BAY
Our last stop in Antarctica was Chiriguano Bay, northeast of Strath Point, a significant geographical landmark within the Palmer Archipelago. Situated on the southeastern side of Brabant Island, the bay was surveyed and called "Bahia Chiriguano" by the Argentine Antarctic Expedition, 1948–49. It is named after the Chiriguano people, an indigenous group from Bolivia.
After lunch, we took a short, slow Zodiac ride around the bay. We were able to get up close to some strikingly shaped icebergs and glacier formations. The sun beamed through wispy clouds.
Next on today’s agenda was the Polar Plunge! Lois had decided to do it for the health benefits. I was the official photographer/moral supporter. She got ready and we went down to the Discovery Lounge to wait for her group to be called.
The venue buzzed with brave souls dressed in their bathing suits covered by robes. Two bartenders served up liquid courage. Dave walked around wearing a penguin suit. He answered questions and gave encouraging hugs.
She did it!
After Lois warmed up and got dressed we browsed at the gift shop again, then checked out the sushi bar for a change of pace.
To end the night, Dave, Simon and Valentina hosted a “Farewell Antarctica and Cheers to your 7th Continent” Dance Party at 915pm. Those of us joining this "club" congratulated ourselves and clinked glasses! I got my party on!
Lois stayed for a while but I closed down the house. We are headed back through the Drake Passage tonight and tomorrow. So far, the Captain says, the forecast is no worse than we had coming here.
DECEMBER 4
DRAKE PASSAGE/DAY AT SEA
No need to wake up early, so I ordered room service for breakfast. A Belgian waffle and blueberries. Lois was feeling seasick so she didn’t go on the tour of the bridge we had scheduled for 2pm. The tour was ok, you see inside the control room but honestly, I didn’t find it that interesting. A lot of digital machines and boring explanations. Ed got a photo op and we were ready to go. It lasted about an hour.
The Captain signing a map which was raffled off.
Ed looking out over the bow of the ship inside the control room.
When I went back to the room Lois was still down for the count, so I decided this would be a good opportunity to go to afternoon tea in the Constellation Lounge. I truly enjoyed it. All the scones and clotted cream and tiny sandwiches you can eat. Mini hourglass timers are set on the table with your order so you can steep your tea the optimal time to achieve the perfect flavor.
In a couple of hours, the ship sailed into calmer seas so Lois was feeling better and ready for a sushi appetizer and dinner. I hadn’t been by the sauna or the exercise room, so Lois showed me around as she had been there during her personal trainer sessions. They had yoga mats and nice equipment. I should have taken more advantage but not much energy left after expeditions.
After eating, we went to hear Dave sing the classics.
DECEMBER 5
DAY AT SEA/USHUAIA
Last day of the cruise. Had room service breakfast, crepes with bacon and an omelet. (They were out of strawberries.) Lois picked up our boarding passes for the domestic charter flight to Buenos Aires. I happily donated one pair of waterproof pants, my goggles and mittens to the expedition team. No need for that stuff to take up room in my suitcase. I kept a pair of REI petite waterproof pants and the gloves.
After that we went to Seabourn Square, read books from the library and chatted with shipmates. Dave sat down and shared he would be leaving Seabourn soon and he’d see us in NYC. He wanted to start spending more time with his partner.
We made the mistake of going into the Club for trivia before lunch and Dave talked us into joining a team. We did not win. Too bad because the prizes were cute Seabourn teddy bears.
The Drake Lake continued through the remainder of the passage and the Beagle Channel. That afternoon, we watched some educational videos in the room and took photos from the balcony.
A farewell feast awaited us at 5pm in the Discovery Lounge. All the staff showed up and Nikki, the head expedition leader, looked gorgeous in a black floor length gown. Tables bulged with food and waiters served tray passed glasses of champagne. The Captain wished everyone safe onward journeys.
We docked in Ushuaia early, and guests could get off the ship and walk around town if they wished. We didn’t. The cold temperature was not inviting and we would have had to pay for dinner. Instead, we ate in The Restaurant and then enjoyed watching the Disney movie “Penguins” in the Discovery Center.
Returning to Ushuaia
DECEMBER 6
DISEMBARK USHUAIA, FLIGHT TO BUENOS AIRES
We had to be out of our room by 8am, but could wait in public areas of the ship until our scheduled departure time of 10am. I ate breakfast by myself and then met up with Lois in the Discovery Center. We hugged Dave goodbye and knew we would be in touch because we had already followed each other on Instagram. Got on the bus to the Ushuaia airport.
Seabourn takes care of checking your bags in with the airline, but there was an hour long wait to get through passport control. The line snaked around the entranceway three layers deep and ended with a flight of stairs. Seabourn reps kept us company until the bitter end.
Security screening was quick and easy, and then a short walk to the gate. In front of the restrooms in the gate area there is a counter with prepackaged sandwiches and water for purchase. We were served a snack on the flight back.
ARRIVAL IN BUENOS AIRES
Waited 30 minutes for the luggage to come off. We headed directly to customs. Put your passport in the slot, a camera takes your picture and the doors open. We had a long time before our flight at 9pm so we did a little shopping and then headed to Outback Steakhouse for a leisurely lunch. The check in desks wouldn’t open until 3 hours before flight time so we had to keep our luggage with us.
We ran into John (the Asian guy traveling alone we had met at dinner with Dave) and invited him to join us. There is a Starbucks and a few dining options in Buenos Aires near the gate. We stopped at a Priority Pass lounge, but they said an hour wait to get in. What good is a lounge pass if you can’t use it? A kindly store clerk warned us not to buy water because of a second security check at the gate and they would take it away. Bummer.
Ministro Pistarini International Airport (Buenos Aires, Argentina)
FLIGHT BUENOS AIRES TO JFK
The flight home - nonstop on American - was uneventful. Our luggage came out quickly at JFK and we got on the AirTrain to head home. Note that some LIRR trains from Jamaica go directly to Penn Station which was easier for Lois to get home, but they are different trains than go to Grand Central.
The Travelers Century Club gave me credit for 2 countries in Antarctica (Britain and Argentina) and I’m now a member of the 7-continent club!
PACKING LIST
Seabourn’s packing list was very helpful.
https://www.seabourn.com/en/us/packing-list/arctic-antarctica
They will fit you with a parka and boots. You can keep the parka but not the boots. We also received a small beanie. We were supposed to get a waterproof day bag, but supply chain issues kept those from arriving until the last day.
I suggest you bring a pair of slip-on boots or shoes for the mudroom when you change into Seabourn’s boots for the landings. I brought a pair of Sketchers mid-calf boots with furry tops and used those around the ship and for dressing up. My only other shoes were a pair of black Hoka Mach 6 with colorful laces. Lois got away with one pair of comfortable hiking boots.
Waterproof pants, one of the required items, were harder to find for a petite curvy woman who is 5'2" (me) than I expected. REI had a navy-blue pair in stock and I went to the store in Soho to try them on. An extra-large fit perfectly leaving room for layers and were the right length to go over boots. The legs had a small tab of Velcro at the bottom which I removed, because Velcro is contraindicated on pants in Antarctica. Unwanted microbes could latch on and cause pollution of the pristine Antarctic landscape, according to Seabourn’s “Don’t pack a pest” guidelines.
I also brought 2 pair of Uniqlo heat tech extra warm leggings, 2 pair of fleece leggings from Land’s End (they have petite sizes), 4 pair of wool socks (be sure they are really soft against your feet because the provided boots offer no cushioning). 2 Uniqlo heat tech tops and 1 Land’s End black t shirt.
I wore both pairs of Uniqlo, one of the fleece leggings and the waterproof pants on my bottom half during most of the landings. On the coldest days, I had both heat tech tops and a fleece jacket under my parka (I hate the cold, remember?). I used a gaiter and my own Russian style hat with ear flaps. I also packed 2 plaid flannel shirts from Land’s End and a matching burgundy vest.
I brought mittens I barely used; waterproof gloves (the ones that supposedly work on the iPhone but never seem to work for me). You need gloves for entering and exiting the Zodiacs. While on the Zodiac, I wore one glove on my left hand and took photos with my right. I stuck my hands back in my pockets lined with electronic hand warmers to unfreeze. I didn’t use the recommended sun goggles but Lois liked wearing hers. Hard to wear goggles when you wear glasses.
For dinner on the ship, I packed a long cotton black skirt that travels well. To go with it, a leopard t-neck, a black t-neck and a burgundy one. Also, a white blouse and a leopard blouse to mix and match. I also brought along a pair of black jeans. I’d say about half the passengers changed for dinner and half didn’t. Wear whatever you’re comfortable in.
5 pair of panties and 4 bras (including what I was wearing). I had onboard credit to use on the ship so I sent my laundry out and got it back within 2 days.
I only needed one nightgown. Magnetic hooks added space to the inside of the walk-in closet. Toiletry bag, and I put my hair stuff in 4 small jars. Medicine, including Bonine and scopolamine (the patch). I put my medicine and supplements into individual packs for the day and then carried this red medicine pouch with slots and pockets I got from Magellan.
For luggage I took a small under the seat carryon and my purse, and checked an expandable hard shell 24 inch suitcase from Quince.
For Buenos Aires (temperature in the high 80’s) I packed one lightweight matching pants and short sleeve blouse outfit and traveled in black slacks and a Land’s End t-shirt which I wore the rest of the day upon arrival. The fleece jacket kept me warm on the plane.
If you have dry skin and hair, you should bring extra heavy-duty lotion or oil. Antarctica is a desert. The air is so dry. My cuticles cracked. My hair stayed frizzy and with wearing a hat every day there wasn’t much I could do about that. Things I wish I had brought: my hairbrush, more hair oil, cute sweaters.
END OF PACKING INFORMATION
OTHER RANDOM ADVICE/THOUGHTS
Sunset is at 1127pm and sunrise at 250am. Bring an eye mask if you're sensitive to light while sleeping.
There are nightlights along the hallway of the room leading to the bathroom, as well as inside. This is a great feature; you don't have to pee in the dark or flip on a bright light. The towels are bath size. Really big.
The TV interface is not intuitive and is difficult to comprehend. Plus, it was down for two days during our trip. You can find the bridge cam under live TV. I didn't think at first to look for it there. Also, they don't tell you, but you can watch the expedition briefings being held in the Discovery Center live streaming in your room. I did that a couple times in the early mornings or after a late afternoon excursion getting ready for dinner and it worked great.
Speaking of food, the portions are small so you may need to order extra if you’re hangry. Watch out, the servers will take your plate away quickly and not ask. In the morning, the wait staff isn’t assigned to a table so we had too many waiters asking us what we wanted. Once Lois ended up with 3 hot teas. However, we loved the all-inclusive drink feature, you don’t have to sign a form every time you order a beverage.
For drinks in the room, our cabin stewardess asked what kind of liquor I wanted. It seemed like they don’t pay attention to the form you fill out in advance. I asked for Belvedere vodka, in addition to the champagne, which finally appeared. Dave had said at dinner he would make sure I got the liquor I requested sent to my room. I didn’t end up opening either bottle.
Based on my experiences, the guest services crew on this sailing, especially the woman, were not particularly friendly or helpful. Glad we had Dave in our corner!
JP shared with Lois and I how to get in touch with the supervisor of guest relations for special dietary requests. Four to six weeks advance notice will make sure necessary food items get on board before the cruise leaves.
Any questions feel free to reach out!
Jeanne