Colombia
Spent a week in Cartagena, Colombia with
my friend Laura, whom I've known since 1978.
March 15-March 22, 2025
Read on to learn about our Cartagena Capers!
March 15. Facebook Post: Jeanne Devine is traveling to Cartagena, Colombia from American Airlines terminal 8 - John F. Kennedy International Airport. Leaving the Big Apple for warmer weather!
Big Apple Sculpture in American Airlines Terminal JFK
On the plane in Miami met with up my friend Laura from Chicago!
Saturday March 15
We landed on time AA 2167 MIACTG at 625pm. Had to walk down the aircraft stairs, no jet bridge and about 10 minutes to the airport terminal. A young lady in uniform who had wavy black hair down to her knees caught my attention and opened the rope to allow us gray haired people to cut the immigration line. Age has its benefits sometimes! When we exited, our private transfer from Welcome Pickups was waiting, which we appreciated at 8pm at night when the taxi drivers swarmed us. Our driver got a porter for our luggage and went to get the van. Cabbies continued to proposition us until he returned.
Happily, we escaped the mob, and 30 minutes later arrived at Hotel Casa Don Luis, a 5 star boutique member of Radisson Individuals, in the historic walled city. The structure is a restored colonial mansion from 1790. Check in was swift and welcoming. And look! Ed has a friend waiting for him in the room?!
Fun chair
Vanity area
TV dresser refrigerator coffeemaker
Hats and bags are provided for use too! An extra fee if you want to take them home with you.
Hotel Lobby
We rested and unpacked then walked to dinner at Baruco by Cuzco, where I had eaten lunch on the cruise stop during my 2 week Panama Canal cruise in February. Excellent meal!
It was after 11pm when we finished dinner and a long day of travel so time to call it a night.
Sunday March 16
We had breakfast at the hotel this morning, included in the rate. A small buffet of fruit, cheese, deli meat, bread and pastries sat on the bar. You could order coffee and eggs to your liking. The waiter’s ability to speak English was limited so I had to google translate “fried eggs” in Spanish.
Tummies full and meds/vitamins taken, we were ready to explore the city, even in the 90 degree heat. Decided to walk along the “Wall,” a massive fortification that surrounds Cartagena’s historic center. It was built by the Spanish during colonial times to protect the city from foreign invaders.
A few vendors approached with costume jewelry, and Laura negotiated and purchased. We kept walking toward the cannons we could see in the distance, with the gorgeous Caribbean Sea to our left.
We were done sweating in the blazing sun so we strolled in the shade until we found a marketplace, Las Bovedas. It’s a distinctive yellow-colored collection of shops built into the sea facing city wall. Lots of T shirts, bags, cold drinks, clothes, rugs, blankets, jewelry and art, but little A/C and limited seating. We cut shopping short and went in search of somewhere to sit and eat. One of the shop owners recommended a spot a few doors down. La Taperia. The menu was appealing so we grabbed the table nearest the A/C and plopped.
La Taperia
Delicious tapas!
About a 20 minute walk back to the hotel then we lounged by the pool for a few hours.
Beautiful rooftop views from the pool area!
Dinner at Inkanto, a Peruvian restaurant. Located inside the Hotel Santa Catalina, only a 10 minute walk, but we got lost and had to ask for directions several times. We were the first to be seated at 7pm but others joined soon after. It is interesting how Latin American families take their children out to dinner so late.
I chose this restaurant because we both had a taste for chicken and the menu offered an intriguing dish. The meal was superb but we didn’t like the dessert choices.
We got into the spirit of the city by taking photos with the Palenquera ladies in the Plaza de Los Coches, in front of the Clock Tower Gate (Puerta del Reloj) after dinner.
Then we meandered and stumbled upon a dance performance in the Plaza de la Proclamacion! Ended the night with ice cream at a yogurt shop!
Monday March 17
We went on a 2 hour walking tour this morning of the Centro Historico and Getsemani. Meeting point: Santo Domingo Square next to the Botello sculpture.
I had purchased the Cartagena: Walled City and Getsemani Shared Walking Tour through Get Your Guide. We had to wait about 15 -20 minutes for two other participants of the tour who were running late. Our guide, Arthur Anaya, said go and sit in the church across the street while you wait, it’s cool inside. We did. There was a service going on and people were coming in and out.
Santuario del Cristo de la Expiracion
Our trip companions were two fabulous women, one from Detroit and the other from somewhere else I can’t remember.
Arthur spoke perfect English and was also an ace photographer. We saw the window where the townspeople used to denounce witches, and a beautiful façade that used to be a prison. We walked through Parque de Bolivar and learned the history of Simon Bolivar, a revolutionary leader who played a key role in Latin America’s independence from Spain.
Tour Guide Arthur
Window of Denunciation
Hard to believe this used to be a prison
Parque de Bolivar
Musical and visual artists displayed their talents in the Parque de Bolivar
Next, we spent a few minutes inside the Cartagena Cathedral, named after Saint Catherine of Alexandria, said to be one of the oldest and most iconic churches in the Americas. I felt a spiritual vibe and sat down in a pew to meditate. Arthur had to tap me on the shoulder to bring me back to Earth.
He was playing a beautiful song and singing.
On to Plaza de la Aduana (Customs Square), where people gathered to pay their taxes on imports and exports in the olden days.
More photo ops at the Tower Gate before heading over to Getsemani
We left the walled city and crossed the street to the Camellon de los Martires, a historical landmark and promenade located outside the Clock Tower Gate, connecting the historic center of Cartagena to the neighborhood of Getsemani. The walkway is a public space and a memorial site, in honor of patriots who were executed by Spanish forces in 1816. Getsemani is known for its colorful street art, historic architecture and creative energy. The area was originally home to freed slaves, artisans and laborers.
We stopped in El Centenario Plaza to see a sloth hanging on to a tree, buy some water and rest in the shade. Bathrooms were available.
We continued through the Centro Commercial to the main streets of Getsemani, stopping to admire and photograph street art. This photo is a classic, taken in front of Casa Mulata.
There is so much amazing art I couldn’t take pictures of all of it.
Arthur said this is his favorite neighborhood of Cartagena, and the hotels and restaurants are cheaper here. Laura and I preferred the walled city. Getsemani had too much graffiti (besides the street art), more homeless-looking locals, dive bars and less visible police presence. We heard it’s where the young folk go to party. Too grimy and rundown for luxury-appreciating mature ladies.
I was glad Arthur warned us about the rappers. They are street musicians (loosely) in Getsemani who come all up in your grill and start rapping and trying to get you to buy their CD. You can’t show any interest or they won’t leave you alone. I put my hands over my ears and ran the gauntlet.
Last, we ended up in an air conditioned jewelry store, with couches and cold drinks and bathrooms. Colombia is the largest producer of emeralds in the world, especially known for stones with vivid green color, high clarity, ethical sourcing and artisanal mining traditions. We watched a short advertisement movie telling us this. Laura and I were not in the market for expensive baubles, so we rested our weary feet, drank the cool water, took advantage of the facilities and left.
We decided 30 minutes was too far to walk back in the heat and took an Uber. Had tasty burgers and margaritas at Porthos Steakhouse, two doors down from our hotel.
After the tour and all this food and drink - naptime!
We figured having dinner at Lunatico in Getsemani would be efficient since we were going there for a rum and chocolate tasting afterward. And we had a 10 percent off coupon! Sadly, Lunatico did not live up to my hopes. I had shrimp ceviche gazpacho, which was creatively presented and somewhat flavorful. My fish tacos came with uninspiring garnishes and sauces. Laura wasn’t crazy about the sauce on her pork ribs.
Shrimp ceviche
Fish tacos
Service left a lot to be desired. We finally figured out that the waitress didn’t speak English and was too nervous to try and communicate with us. We had to wait until one of her bi-lingual managers could come and take our order.
The best part of dinner was the view of the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas Fort and Cartagena.
Lunatica redeemed itself with the rum tasting. It was fantastic! We got prime seats on the end near all the action. A gregarious young couple from London was right next to us, and a boisterous group from Detroit filled out the remaining seats. Each drink was accompanied by a piece of chocolate, in a variety of flavors such as raspberry, white chocolate, and hazelnut. We did before chocolate and after chocolate tastings with plenty of rum to spare. Our “Rummelier” Adrian was so cute!
I usually get a favorable reaction when I tell people I live in New York City. I asked Adrian if he had ever been, and he said no. He explained how difficult it is for Colombians to get a visa to the United States. He said it takes about 5 years after you apply, and you have to show a sizable amount of money in a bank account to qualify. Arthur, our city tour guide, later confirmed this information. That surprised me. I think we Americans don’t appreciate how easy it is for us to travel to many, many countries.
P.S. We were buzzed by the time we left the rum tasting! Ed had a good time too!
Tuesday March 18
I woke up in the nick of time for breakfast at the hotel (ended at 10am) while Laura slept a little longer. When she was ready to roll I found a nearby place for us to have lunch, La Brioche. I resisted ordering a huge chocolate croissant and had a healthy fruit bowl instead.
Then we went shopping and I had hoped to find a pair of shorts, but we ended up buying dresses and complimenting jewelry.
OK, good summer outfit. Back to the hotel spa for our massages!
The massages are offered in a small room off the pool deck, and there is only one room with two tables so we had to go together. It wasn’t strongly air conditioned, but comfortable. One hour was a reasonable rate of about $45 US.
Knots released, we spent an hour by the pool and went no further for dinner tonight than our hotel restaurant, Casa Della Pasta Don Ignazio. Sadly, I was disappointed with this meal as well. My tastebuds know canned mushrooms when they taste ‘em.
My lasagna was only ok. Laura had spaghetti which she liked. Skipped dessert.
At least the atmosphere was nice.
Back in the room, we watched Buy Now: The Shopping Conspiracy (2024), a documentary on Netflix about how big corporations convince you to buy buy buy. We were already aware of most of the information, but the cartoon like cinematography kept us amused.
Decided to go on a hunt for dessert around 830pm and hit the jackpot at Cafe la Manchuria, right across the street. I had a piece of carrot cake with cream cheese frosting that melted in my mouth, and Laura had cheesecake. Relaxing day!
Wednesday March 19
Today we hired Arthur via What’s App privately to take us to Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas (castle/fort), Cerro de la Popa (convent) and Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s library and final resting place.
Arthur picked us up in his car at 10am and we drove to the fort and parked in a nearby parking lot. We got in line and purchased our tickets. Cost was $7.00 as of this writing.
Getting to the fort required climbing a steep incline and there were some stairs in various places. In case you forgot your hat, you could shop on the way up.
We made it to the top!
Passageway inside the fort
Arthur mentioned there was another level to go up for views but we declined. After roaming around for a half hour, we were ready to leave.
Next we drove to the Cerro de la Popa (Hill of the Stern)(because it looks like the stern of a ship). It is the highest point in Cartagena, rising about 490 feet (150 meters) above sea level. The ascending road was narrow and twisty, reminding me of hairpin curves around the mountains of Yellowstone National Park.
Convento de la Popa, located there, is a 17th century convent and church, built by Augustinian friars. The convent is still active, and February 2 each year thousands of pilgrims climb the hill to honor the Day of the Virgin of La Candelaria. Pope John Paul II visited in 1986.
The view was simply amazing!
There are vendors if you need food or drink or a souvenir. Clean bathrooms.
Arthur then delivered us to Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s house and museum. He took some pictures of us before he left. This was the end of the tour so we paid him and hugged goodbye.
I especially loved the busts of his wife and him.
The courtyard with his memorial statue is picturesque and tranquil, brimming with flowers and benches to sit on.
A library that appeared well stocked is also in the complex. A small café sold sandwiches and drinks. We were hungry but nothing on the menu said “eat me” so we decided to stroll toward our hotel and see what we came across on the way.
We stumbled upon La Picua, an Afro-Caribbean restaurant, where I had lobster! We were the only customers at that time, and we received excellent service. Even got a bottle of prosecco for a reasonable price. The A/C was not as strong as we would have liked, but we managed with the delicious food taking our minds off the heat.
Laura had steak, sausage and plantains.
An hour later we were sunbathing at the pool.
I caught a gorgeous sunset.
My restaurant picking skills must have been on hiatus this trip because we had another disappointing dinner at Mexcal Cantina and Grill. We were in the mood for Mexican and it had stellar reviews, but our experience didn’t match the hype. The food was barely a step above Chipolte. We had to get up and flag down the waitress because she ignored us for so long. I don’t know if it was a one off, but can’t recommend and won’t try again. Oh well. Got some froyo from the yogurt place with chocolate chips and almonds on top for dessert and that made me happy.
Thursday March 20
We had reserved a full day tour before we arrived with Get Your Guide to San Basilio de Palenque, an historic town located an hour and a half drive from Cartagena. It is notable for being one of the first free African towns in the Americas, founded in the early 17th century by escaped enslaved people. The town is recognized for its rich heritage, which includes a unique blend of African, Indigenous, and Spanish influences. It has a UNESCO designation, highlighting its significance in preserving African heritage and culture in Colombia. We didn’t want to take a chance on the tour selling out.
The tour guide sent a message on Monday and asked to change the day we had booked from Tuesday to Thursday. We were able to fit that change into our schedule. Lunch is included and they requested our preference between fish and chicken.
On Wednesday, we received a request to meet at 830am instead of 10am and I put my foot down. We threatened to hire a private guide instead (more expensive but more flexible). In hindsight that’s what we should have done. Our group was not compatible and we ended up waiting on them numerous times which is why I hate tours.
We show up at the meeting spot in Getsemani at 10am, and start the day at a coffee shop - waiting - for everyone to show up including the guide.
Finally, all 10 of us clamber into the van, and we’re off. Tour guide Maria starts right in on the mic asking where everyone is from and bellowing her spiel. She said it is about a 2 hour drive with no stops. Why don’t tour companies build bathroom breaks into their tours? Especially as the age of travelers increases? In fact, one of our (young!) tourmates had to beg the driver to pull over to the trees on the side of the road on the way back. We were in heavy traffic and there was no way to get her to the gas station in time. I strongly sympathized. The locals ply you with soft drinks and water because its hot. Get with the program.
Finally it's time to exit the vehicle, stretch our legs and pee! We picked up another tour guide, a woman who was Indigenous and only spoke Spanish. Maria translated, and we learned more about the history and every day life of Palenque. They ride horses.
The town isn’t officially under any governmental framework of Cartegena and is lacking many basic services like garbage collection. The juxtaposition between the extraordinary art work and the primitive lifestyle is jarring.
Maria said this mural honors a Tour Guide who was killed (not in Palenque). Maria also had ties to the neighborhood, children were running up to her and hugging her throughout the tour.
This mural is for the importance of Grandmothers in your life.
We peeked over a fence and saw a cemetery. They bury their people above ground like in New Orleans.
Kids coming home from school.
We were told Ziggy Marley has been here, as well as Duchess Meghan and Prince Harry.
Next, we drove to a dance school, where young men and women put on a fantastic show. Rows of chairs were set up for us and the students demanded audience participation.
Palenque has been celebrated for its contributions to music, dance, and language, particularly the Palenquero language, which is a Spanish-based creole with African linguistic influences. The town is also famous for its vibrant music scene.
Our tour included a stop in a local musician’s studio. He belongs to Kombilesa Mi, a band whose genre is traditional Caribbean sounds. They promote Colombian music on national and international stages. We were invited to a jam session! Everybody picked up an instrument - drum, bongo, triangle, tamborine, xylophone mallets. And played.
You could write your name on the wall if you could find a space.
Then we had lunch. There were supposed to be fans, but the electricity had gone out. We were surprised that the hostess was able to cook but they use grills. Sadly, the lack of electricity happens often.
Fish for lunch - delicious!
Laura said the chicken was excellent too.
We walked to town square, saw a church and some monuments. I wouldn’t have minded some time to browse at the booths, but not allowed.
Palenque - First Free Negro Territory of America
Next we went to a hot and stuffy boxing school, honoring the famous boxer Erislandy Lara. His ties to San Basilio de Palenque highlight the town’s contributions to sports and culture. Some participated in boxing lessons. I supervised from a nearby chair.
On the way out, one last bathroom stop in someone’s home. There was no seat on the toilet. Stand up and squat.
Final photo op before the 2 hour drive back. The spelling “Palenge” (the Q is a G in this sign) reflects how the locals actually pronounce the name of their town in Palenquero.
I highly recommend this trip to learn about the first free Black town in the Americas.
I captured this photo from the van. I call it contemplation.
We went back to somewhere familiar and good, Barusco, for dinner after a long, hot adventure.
Friday March 21
Beach day in Cartagena! Eduardo, our fantastic concierge, hooked us up with a day pass to the Hotel Caribe in Bocagrande, a sister hotel to Casa Don Luis. Included 2 free drinks, towels and chairs. We didn’t want to take a taxi and drive hours to prettier beaches.
We took an Uber to the Hotel Caribe, and arrived in 15 minutes. The front desk staff greeted us warmly after we showed our voucher. We received a tour of the grounds and the restaurant, pool and beach area.
Gorgeous pool but I wanted to get in the Caribbean sea
Driftwood sculptures
Since we had skipped breakfast, we decided to eat before getting comfortable at the beach. The buffet wasn’t worth the $30 cost per person, but we had no other options. We made do with cold pancakes and asking 3 times for coffee. Luckily we had brought some snacks.
We found our way back to the designated beach area. No shade available. Two German speaking couples had snagged the only functioning umbrellas. We put on our visors, arranged our towels on two chairs, ordered a drink and settled in.
You could see the ocean from our vantage point, but you had to walk outside the gated area and across a wide expanse of sand to get to the water. The fence provided protection from the vendors and a guard kept watch near the entrance. You can rent tacky plastic chairs and umbrellas to sit oceanfront if you wish.
I ignored all the sales pitches and waded right into the clear blue Caribbean sea (my favorite body of water). The petite waves and perfect temperature drew me in up to my neck. Soft sand tickled my feet. I bobbed. Aaaah. This is the life.
Couldn’t stay in the water long. Sunblock can only do so much when the sun is this brutal.
Laura got a leg cramp so we moved to a couch under the fabric roof of the outdoor restaurant and got her hydrated. Some in-the-know young people joined us on the opposite couch, leaving their towels and coverups. I learned the trick to this beach venue - order drinks (and food if you want) to claim a spot, run past the vendors to the sea, swim (or splash), run back, dry off and do it all again. Service was prompt and friendly.
We checked out the pool and hot tub and got our free drinks (rum punch). Laura investigated and there was no shopping. We asked about flamingos which were supposed to be living on the grounds, but we couldn’t find them. I tried in English and Spanish and no one could help us. We had forgotten to ask the English speaking front desk agent who took us on the tour and she was not available now.
We were hungry so we packed up and turned in our towels. In the lobby we selected a nearby pizza place from Google Maps and called an Uber.
Our lunch at Balsamico was excellent. My restaurant picking mo-jo is back! Cute sea aquarium atmosphere, attentive but not hovering service. Homemade lemonade. We wanted to try pizza and pasta so ordered both.
Traffic was horrible on the way back. Rush hour. It took us 30 minutes to be dropped off at Casa Don Luis. Eduardo welcomed us and confirmed that we enjoyed our day.
Our last night here! We were pretty tired after the beach and didn’t feel like walking too far or going anywhere fancy for dinner. I had noted the menu of Porton de San Sebastian in my mind a couple of days ago when we were walking home and had a good feeling about it. We went by and got the last table in this cozy restaurant.
I had to send my shrimp back to be “cocinado mas” (cooked more) but the friendly waitress imediately understood my request and soon brought me a plate of more well done shrimp. She said hi to Ed and said he reminded her of her 4 dogs at home. The veggies crunched and tasted divine. Yummy.
Saturday March 22
At the airport in Cartagena. Ed wanted his picture taken with the Palenque lady before we left!
Our AA flight 2170 Cartagena to Miami was on time. Going through customs in Miami is a nightmare. Tons of walking and standing in line. We had a 2 hour and 50 minute layover until our connecting flights to JFK and ORD, and we made it to our gates with only 45 minutes to spare.
You have to pick up your luggage and recheck it. (At least the line wasn’t long at baggage check.) No liquids allowed because you have to go back through security. No TSA Pre-check. Avoid international connections in Miami whenever possible.
I love being able to get home by taking the Airtrain from JFK to Jamaica, Queens and then hopping on the Long Island Railroad to the station at 48th and Madison for $14 Senior Rate.
Weather/What to Pack
The weather was consistently hot and humid. 89-90 degrees with 70-80 percent humidity at 10am in the morning. Stays that way until 11pm at night. It rained at night and once during the day for an hour.
Women were wearing as little as possible - shorts, halters, sundresses. Crop tops and wide leg pants. Comfy sandals or tennis shoes. Hats. I took shorts and T-shirts and a pair of linen capris. Two sundresses. I always take comfy long slacks and a long sleeve shirt for the plane because I get cold.
No high heels - the sidewalks and roads are rocky and unkempt. We each brought a long dress but didn’t wear them. Sunblock, swim suit, cover up. Pool towels were available. I checked a medium size bag and carried on an under the seat roller bag and a small Vero Bradley backpack.
Safety
Many people have asked me if Cartagena is safe. I felt safe. There are as many people out and about as in Times Square on a Saturday night. Police presence is visible; don’t go down an empty dark street. Because of the heat, people come out at night. Stores are open, vendors pester you, boom boxes blare, horse drawn carriage drivers beg to give you a ride. It’s a carnival atmosphere in the clock tower area.
This city adheres to the Latin culture of eating dinner at 8pm or later, another reason the streets are busy. We walked home from dinner at midnight with many others.
We loved our location in the walled city and as I said earlier (see March 17), we liked it better than Getsemani. The tour with Arthur had no issues. But overall, the vibe didn’t suit us. Getsemani is noted for its nightclubs and dive bars, catering to a younger crowd.
Fantastic trip! Any questions please ask.
Closing Thoughts
I would go back to Cartagena. I would love to drive further out and see the more scenic beaches next time, or opt for a resort right on Baru or the Rosario Islands. But I doubt these gems could usurp my love of African based Caribbean islands where English or French are the primary languages. At least until my Spanish gets better! I do hope to explore more of Colombia one day. Medellín gets rave reviews for food and culture.