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Tallinn, Estonia & Helsinki, Finland
Planning Stages
“Why are you going to Estonia and Finland? How did that come about? Isn’t that close to Russia?”
These are the first questions I received when I shared the news of this trip with friends and family. My answer: “My friend Sal, who lives in Scotland, sent me a message in March 2025 that said ‘I’m going to be in Helsinki for a conference May 28-June 1, would you like to join me?’
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Me and Sal at her wedding celebration in Oban, Scotland April 2024
“Yes, both countries have a border with Russia.” My friends give me the “are you crazy” look. I ignore it.
I’d never been to Finland, so it didn’t take me long to clear my schedule and write Sal back “I’d love to join you!” Country #83! She was excited to receive my response and sent me the details. The conference organizers had provided a list of recommended hotels. She asked me in my capacity as travel designer to review them and make a reservation. I am a Platinum member of IHG Group and there was a Crowne Plaza offered. By using some points I got a rate of 200 Euros for four nights.
Now that the trip to Helsinki was confirmed, I wanted to figure out another country to visit. If I could get two new countries in on one trip, that would be amazing! Especially since it’s an eight-to-nine-hour flight from New York.
I had already been to Sweden, Denmark, Norway (all lovely countries I would visit again), but I was hopeful to find a new one and add to my numeric count for the Travelers Century Club. I went to Google maps on my phone and punched in Helsinki, Finland. Looking around I see Russia – been there done that. Eastern Europe – Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania.
I had spent a half day in Riga, Latvia during a cruise stop in 2013, and at the moment I didn’t see any reason to go back.
A native of Lithuania that I met on the beach in Tinos, Greece (June 2023) highly recommended a trip to her country. But research showed that Lithuania could only be reached (on land) via Estonia and Latvia, and it was far, at least eight hours on a bus. I could fly there from Helsinki in two hours.
I knew absolutely nothing about Estonia, but saw some ferry lines on the map and learned that Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, was a two-hour boat ride from Helsinki. I love boat trips! If there happened to be a flight between those two cities, it would be even shorter. Seemed promising.
What is there to do in Tallinn? OMG it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site! Its Old Town has well-preserved medieval architecture and cultural significance as a trading hub since the Middle Ages? Checked the weather - chilly. Take coat, hat, mittens. OK. Sign me up! And that is how I decided to go to Estonia and Finland.
I had recently received emails from Lonely Planet (a prominent publisher of travel guidebooks) stating they had established an independent tour company called “Elsewhere.” Their tagline is: “Explore More, Plan Less. Your dream trip, crafted by award-winning local experts.” I decided to contact them and ask for help planning the solo portion of my trip. What a smart choice! www.elsewhere.io
You start by filling out a questionnaire with the basics. How many people, location, dates, length of stay. Reason for the trip, and anything else you would like your expert to know. When you submit the form, you get a sample itinerary to peruse and a bio of your expert. Next you schedule an online meeting, or wait for the travel guru to message you. The message option (inbox) is always open.
My local expert, EP and I had an instant rapport when we met on Zoom. We spoke for 30 minutes. I told him I could come to Tallinn first or after Helsinki. He shared what dates might have a blackout or higher than usual hotel rates. Provided advice on how long to stay and what to see. Rattled off reviews of hotels and restaurants like Peter Greenberg. I asked about day trips to other cities, but ultimately decided against that. I was super impressed with his suggestions.
After the initial conversation, the company asks you to pay a $100 planning fee. That was certainly reasonable for the concierge service EP could supply. I paid via credit card through a link.
I needed to confirm my flights next, in order to give EP my exact itinerary. I used a combination of Avios points (transferred from Chase Sapphire to British Airways to Finnair) and cash to get a round trip in premium economy for $1400. The only catch was that I decided to take a flight all the way to Tallinn instead of the ferry outbound so I had a 5-hour 18-minute layover in Helsinki (saved $500 by not taking an earlier connection). My travel dates would be departure NYC May 21, arrive Tallinn May 22. Stay there for 6 nights, take the ferry to Helsinki on May 28, hang with Sal until she left on June 1, transfer hotels and stay in Helsinki until June 4.
Once I gave EP this information, he crafted a proposed itinerary and estimated cost. It included plans for my solo portion in Tallinn, and in Helsinki after Sal left. After I reviewed it, we had another call, and he was easily able to make all the changes I requested. We added in more fun things, like a massage at the spa, and dinner at a Michelin ranked restaurant. He kept me informed via inbox when he confirmed my hotel and transportation details.
I had to pay 1/3 of the final cost as a deposit at this time. You pay the remainder in full 30 days before departure.
Ultimately, you receive an online Roadbook, “a curated travel itinerary and day by day survival guide” per Elsewhere’s website. It is chock full of highly personalized advice. Recommended restaurants, tips and tricks. Emergency phone numbers, basic facts about the countries. Most vouchers were included for transportation, the spa, prepaid meals, museum tickets. All I had to do was show them on my phone to the relevant person.
Since I would be traveling alone during a portion of the trip, EP suggested I set up private tour guides in Tallinn and Helsinki, complete with a home hosted dinner in Helsinki. You have access to the expert the entire time you are on the trip. EP was responsive and checked in with me often to make sure every tiny detail was correct. I highly recommend!
On the Trip!
Wednesday May 21, 2025
Country #83! Coming up! Back at JFK!
I boarded nonstop Finnair (AY) flight 16. Departure scheduled for 1055pm, arrival Helsinki at 2pm local time the next day. Beef and potatoes for dinner hit the spot. I asked for a dry champagne and the flight attendant said she had a rosé. I don’t normally like rosés, they’re too sweet, but she said no, you will like this one. She was right.
Movie selection didn’t excite me. I fell asleep listening to music on my iPhone and woke up for breakfast. We landed twenty four minutes late at 224pm.
Because of the long layover, I had decided not to count on Priority Pass access and bought a premium lounge pass offered on Finnair’s website for $45. I passed one lounge and stopped in to ask and the agent directed me further into the airport.
A long trek to the International Arrivals area. The Passport Control line snaked around and around, and agents were allowing people with tight connections to jump in front. I didn’t mind as I had plenty of time to spare. My connecting flight Finnair (AY) 1027 was scheduled to leave at 705pm, and I couldn’t go into the lounge until 3 hours before departure.
I finally emerged into the main airport terminal at 330pm. After shopping for souvenirs, learning about Moomins and taking pics of Ed the Explorer communing with his wolf brothers, I headed up to the Finnair business lounge.
These wolves don't look welcoming!
The lounge was clean, not crowded. Hearty snacks, mini sandwiches, chips. Salads, soup and desserts. Tons of options for coffee, soda, water, juice. Wine, sparkling wine and beer were also available. Numerous electrical outlets, showers, pretty bathrooms and private booths for conversation. I found a quiet cozy spot, loaded up a plate and opened my Kindle.
I kept an eye on my connecting flight, Finnair (AY) flight 1027, scheduled to depart at 705pm and arrive Tallinn at 735pm. Saw there was a delay, and still left the lounge too early. I wasn’t sure how long it would take me to get to the gate. There were NO comfortable chairs at the domestic gate. Hard plastic benches. The plane had landed but was getting cleaned.
The waiting area bustled with a group of college age kids. Airline staff begged for gate check bags. I decided to be stubborn since my other suitcase was checked. I soon wished I hadn’t. My compact rollaboard (16 x 14.25 x 9) wouldn’t fit overhead in the ATR 72 twin-engine turboprop plane and had to be stowed under the seat. It took up some legroom on my seatmate’s side, but luckily, he didn’t mind. Short flight.
Thursday May 22, 2025
Made it to the Tallinn airport at 815pm. I had a private transfer arranged by EP, so I knew the late arrival wouldn’t be an issue. I retrieved my checked bag, found my driver holding up an iPad with my name, and we were headed to the hotel by 830pm. The sun had not set yet. We passed a Ferris wheel on the way.
I was curious, so I researched and learned the “SkyWheel of Tallinn” is located on the roof of the T1 Mall shopping center. There are panoramic views rising up to 393 feet (120 meters) above sea level. I didn’t take a ride during my stay.
By 851pm I was checked in to the Hotel Telegraaf in the old town, an Autograph Collection Marriott. The historic edifice used to be the Estonian Central Telegraph Office, from 1878. It’s rated 5 stars and wins many votes for the best hotel in the city. SPLURGE!!!
I had a dinner reservation at Restaurant Tchaikovsky, in the hotel, at 9pm. On the way to my room, I stopped by and asked if I could move it to 10pm. They said no problem; restaurant is open until 11pm. Fantastic.
I prefer hotels that have somewhere to eat when it’s late and I’ve been traveling for 15 hours. This particular hotel restaurant has an award-winning chef. I think fine dining after a long flight might become a staple of my trips!
I unpacked, took a shower, and changed clothes.
The meal lived up to our lofty expectations.
The sun didn’t set tonight until 10pm and it will come up again at 433am. 7 hours ahead of NYC. Good night!
Friday May 23, 2025
I went downstairs for breakfast at 915am. I thought that would give me plenty of time to eat and meet Miina, my guide, at 10am in the lobby. Wrong. I ate a mini croissant and kiwifruit from the limited buffet and drank my cappuccino. I had ordered an omelette which was still MIA at 945am.
Miina found me in the dining area and introduced herself. I told her what was going on, and she immediately got the attention of a server and started speaking to her in Estonian. She sat down across from me, and ordered herself a coffee when my omelette finally reported for duty. I already liked her!
We discussed our expectations for the day. My only requirement was that we be at Parliament for the 11am tour of the building which happens only on Fridays. She said lunch hours at the restaurant for my included meal were 11am-4pm. Plan was to arrive about 115pm. Cool. Off we go!
We walked out of the hotel and she led me to Chocolats de Pierre Cafe, a staple of Tallinn since 1937. The baristas there allegedly make the best hot chocolate in the world. We ducked into the courtyard and peeked inside the café. Miina gave me her first insider tip – yes, this experience is worth the hype. Don’t miss it.
We continued strolling in Old Town, on our way to the Parliament building at the top of Toompea. Toompea is a prominent limestone hill and serves as a significant historical and cultural site in Estonia. At the top you’ll find stunning views. Along the way, admire the picturesque building designs.
Miina opted to take me through the Long Leg Gate, the lower town’s main gate to Toompea, to avoid stairs. Back in the Middle Ages, this pathway was suitable for riders and horse drawn carriages. The steeper ascent, called the Short Leg, could only be used by pedestrians.
We made our way to the Parliament entrance and Miina inquired about the tour. Yes, the receptionist confirmed, the tour will start soon. Rain was coming down harder so we waited impatiently with a few others to get inside.
Riigikogu ( Estonian for State Assembly) Estonia's Parliament Building
You had to show your Passport and go through security. Outerwear and bags must be left in the coat room. Cameras and phones allowed.
Our first stop was White Hall where the Estonian Constitution was adopted.
There was a great photo op from a window in White Hall for the Russian Orthodox church across the street, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, built in 1900 during one period of Russian rule in Estonia. More recently, Estonia was under Soviet control from 1944 until the adoption of a resolution declaring independence in 1991. Miina commented that her fellow Estonians feel having this ostentatious Russian cathedral opposite the Parliament Building is a slap in the face to Estonia.
We walked further down the hallowed halls and up a flight into the balcony at Session Hall.
There are two balconies, one for diplomatic personnel and Estonian journalists. The other for everybody else. Parliament sessions are open and citizens of Estonia can come to watch the legislative process.
Our tour guide invited us to take a seat. He droned on for a bit, then let us go. Jet lag hit me and I might have snoozed. All I remember is voting is done electronically.
When we left Parliament, Miina gave me time to see the Russian church on my own while she waited in a nearby bookstore. Photos were not allowed inside.
After I exited the church I browsed at the bookstore, then we headed back out into the mist. She pointed out an acting school, a very exclusive one. I used to date an actor so that was relevant to me.
Vintage letterpress printing press
We scurried into Dome Church for another respite from the weather. Also known as St. Mary’s Cathedral, this church was built in the 13th century, making it the oldest church in Tallinn. The devoted Guardian of Worship began life as a Catholic house, but was later converted to Lutheranism during the Reformation. Building aspects feature Gothic and Baroque architecture.
Dome Church houses significant artworks, memorials, and burial sites. Concerts and community events are held there. It is especially known for a collection of Coats of Arms from the 17th to 20th century.
You can climb up Dome’s Tower, via a 144 step spiral staircase with a fee of 5 Euros. Magnificent views awaited the bold. I passed. Too many stairs. Too cloudy.
Three minutes later we were at the top of Toompea looking at the Baltic Sea. Red roofs and church spires sprung up in every direction. I could see boats anchored off the harbor. A cruise ship. Miina posed me for an iconic photo. She let me borrow her hat.
The 3 monks of the Danish Garden represent the religious orders that were active in Tallinn during the medieval period. Monastic life shaped the city’s development. Architecture showcased Romanesque and Gothic styles, and the city’s churches reflect these structural and design elements.
I placed Ed to get a blessing in the monk's hands.
My Estonian expert had reserved lunch at Mix inside the MyCity Hotel. The hostess welcomed us, hung up our coats and offered a cozy corner table. We scooted in and perused the menu. Miina hadn’t eaten here before. The 3 course prix fixe menu sounded delish and we ordered.
Miina and I shared more life stories during this feast for the senses. Chicken liver pate, salmon tartare, beef tenderloin, Dubai chocolate bowl. Each bite tantalized my taste buds. The presentation scored 10 out of 10.
Chimney Sweeps were once considered lucky figures across Europe. By keeping a chimney clean the family could have fire and warmth. Touching the Chimney Sweeps statue’s brass button is believed to bring good luck.
Next we walked through the Viru Gates, the historic entrance to Tallinn’s Old Town. These two medieval towers are part of the city’s defensive wall system.
A ginormous 24 hour flower market under a canvas roof burst with a kaleidoscope of colors. Business was booming. I marveled at the rows of flowers in shades of red, orange, yellow, white and pink, arranged in white pedestal vases.
Warmth and friendliness enveloped us in Katariina’s Gild, an artisanal alley with textile artist studios. I bought three uniquely painted 3 inch circular coat pins that glow in the dark!
Miina and I embraced our inner shoppers and tried on almost every hat in the store at Kubarakoda https://www.katariinagild.eu/katariina-gild-est/elviira-liiver-kubarakoda, chatting with the owner as we modeled. After narrowing down the choices, I bought one. 70 Euros. I loved acquiring a unique hat directly from the milliner. The best type of souvenir.
Ed made a friend there too!
Last stop was Raeapteek, a pharmacy in Town Hall Square that has been serving the public for over 600 years. Crowds circled the historical displays in the apothecary. Old jars and tools of all shapes, colors and sizes sat on wooden shelves. A crocodile hanging from the roof signaled rare knowledge and access to exotic lands. The saleswomen stood forlornly behind the counter because no one was buying anything.
Miina suggested we go to a concert together later that evening (off the clock) but I had already made reservations for Night Shift at Fotografiska. Based on an advertisement I had seen at the airport, I looked up the photography museum as a potential thing to do. There used to be a branch in NYC, but it closed after the pandemic.
I love photographic art. I was in luck! Friday was opening night for two artists. One would be in residence and there would be a bar and a party. I could boast that I’d attended an art opening in Tallinn! The event began at 830pm and the museum stayed open until midnight.
Back to my room to rest for a couple of hours. Nap time becoming more important these days if I want to go out at night!
EP recommended I make a reservation somewhere for dinner Friday night, and proposed a tapas place near my hotel. When I told him about Fotografiska, he endorsed an Indian restaurant across the street from the museum. At the last minute, I decided I wasn’t in the mood for Indian food. Frenchy Bistro popped up on Google Maps catty corner from Lendav Taldrik (name of the Indian restaurant). I was in the mood for escargot and mushroom and truffle ravioli. I didn’t have a reservation but they found me a nice table and offered me kind service. The food rated a 7 out of 10. Not terrible but not memorable.
I figured I would go into Fotografiska around 9pm. I went inside and browsed the gift shop first since it is across from the ticket sales and entrance. There are lockers and rest rooms to the right of the turnstile if you need them. I snuck into what seemed to be a private party with a band and food in the ground floor café, but I was casually dressed and these people had on suits and sparkly gowns.
I snuck back out and the agent scanned my ticket and sent me up the elevator to see the shows. In the exhibition area a cash bar served two signature drinks. The line was long. I skipped the alcohol and went to viewing the photographs.
I started with “Kaleidoscope” by Danish photographer Henriette Sabroe Ebbesen. She had already started her artist talk, which was in English. I could hear as I observed the art. She answered questions and mingled with the audience afterward. I got a good picture of her!
Ebbesen's work "A Tribute to Dali"
The other artist having an opening was an American, Bruce Gilden, “enfant terrible of street photography.” He is regarded as a legend in the world of street photography, having begun his career in 1967. Titled “Why These,” according to exhibition labels, he chose to present images from his major projects alongside a few lesser known gems, many of which have never been seen before. I recognized prints of Coney Island and New York City. Happy to see Black people in the photos.
I dashed to the rooftop bar for sunset and got a decent shot, but it was too chilly and mobbed for me to stay outside. Upbeat music played and lots of attractive young people wearing eclectic attire smushed into the sustainable dining restaurant located on the 6th floor. I had thought about eating here earlier, but wasn’t inspired by the quirky menu.
I had trouble ordering a Bolt to take me to the hotel. At first, the Wi-Fi didn’t extend out to the street where I had been dropped off. I wasn’t sure where else to go to get picked up.
But finally the Wi-Fi connected and a driver came. I had to walk about a block and a half to the hotel, because cars aren’t normally allowed in Old Town. It was light out, and I could see people milling about the main streets. I wasn’t tired, so I browsed in a gift shop and bought a snack for later. Most of the stores were closed, only bars and restaurants open. I smiled at groups of friends having fun and strolled back to my room.
Saturday May 24 (Day)
This morning started off with Miina taking me on a walk through the Rotermann District, known for its artsy vibe and eye catching artwork. The neighborhood has shops, restaurants, green spaces and sculptures. One of the best bakeries for cinnamon buns, Rost, is there, and I made a mental note to return and try one later.
Then we took a tram to Kadriorg Park and walked to Kadriorg Palace, built by Peter the Great, a Russian Czar, for his wife Catherine. Sadly, they never lived there, and it is now an art museum.
Kadriorg Palace
Next we saw where Estonia’s President resides.
Right across the street is Kumu, Tallinn’s contemporary art museum. We spent an hour and a half here. The museum features a diverse collection of Estonian art from the 18th century to the present. I enjoyed the multi media experience of paintings, photographs, sculptures, videos, and sound combined with history.
Our reservation for lunch was at F-Hoone, a trendy restaurant in the
Telliskivi Creative City neighborhood. The former machine factory has been made over into an eye catching dining experience. Art lines the walls and the type of seating varies within the large space. We got a prime window bench and enjoyed the view with our chicken caesar salads.
Next, a quick stop at the Seaplane Harbour Museum, another architectural wonder displaying Estonia’s ships, a submarine and a seaplane. The complex emphasizes interactive exhibits that allow kids to play with maritime technology and find out more about Estonia’s naval history. I learned that Estonians escaped from WWII atrocities via boat to Sweden, the primary destination for refugees seeking safety.
Ed with his blue shark friend at the gift shop
On to a choral concert in St. Olaf’s Church by students from Kansas State University that Miina had discovered and thought we would enjoy.
After this Miina dropped me off at my hotel and I rested until time for dinner.
Saturday May 24 (Evening)
EP had reserved the Chef’s Tasting Dinner for me at NOA Chef’s Hall - a Michelin dining experience! Miina couldn’t believe he had secured a table for me at 730pm on a Saturday night! Me either!
I had to take a Bolt about 20 minutes north of the city, along the Baltic sea. Sitting only yards from the shore, the restaurant offered stunning views of the water and the Tallinn skyline. Seasonal and farm to table food, of course. The meal was included in my package, but I would have to pay for any drinks and extras.
Stepping in the front door feels like you’re entering an exclusive club. A red velvet curtain bars the entrance until the hostess sweeps it aside and ushers you in. You see on the wall the chefs that may be creating tonight.
A stylish young woman took my coat and called me by name. The lounge décor resembled the lobby of an elegant hotel. We headed to a plush, black leather couch with a coffee table, and she offered me options of water. I saw an interracial couple sitting a few tables away and they smiled at me. The sun slowly began its descent.
My blissful being stared out the window and sipped my champagne. I didn’t feel lonely, I felt blessed.
The waitress stopped by again and brought me three amuse bouches hanging on a metal tree.
“Eat them in this order,” she explained. Three bites – a scallop tartlet, a smoky beef croustade, choux (mushroom) and truffle. She shared she was looking forward to the two months of summer coming up. I followed the instructions and savored every morsel.
After that culinary phase the hostess escorted me to the dining room. She introduced me to a chef and I could see the open kitchen behind the counter. I watched as the asparagus appetizer blossomed and the chef requested I eat it right then and there. Yes sir. I had a choice of a table near the cooking action, or with a sea view. I chose the view.
I sat down, napkin across my lap. Ed found a good spot to observe and be ready for tastings.
The server presented me with a full menu to be sure no allergies, and I ordered another drink, a Kir Royale, to accompany the rest of the meal.
8 COURSE DEGUSTATION MENU
scallop tartlet | smoky beef croustade | choux & truffle
asparagus | duck . elderflower . potato
bread | ash hay . butter . beurre noisette
hamachi crudo | tomato . blood orange . wasabi
arctic char | chestnut . timur berry . seabuckthorn beurre blanc caviar (extra)
morels | ramson . truffle . brioche
r75 | rhubarb . lime caviar . champagne
pigeon | BBQ . peas • madeira . vadouvan
nashi pear | shiso . black lime . amarula
tiny bites of dessert: madeleine | plum | pomegranate | blood
I had fun conversations with the waitstaff, ordered caviar to go with the arctic char, and let my taste buds go into overdrive oblivion. It’s an experience I will never forget, and I thank all who made it happen.
Admired the view one last time before I called for a ride back to the hotel.
Sunday May 25
On my own today for sightseeing but I ran into Miina twice while she was tour guiding another group! I decided to skip the boring hotel breakfast and go to an authentic local café she had recommended. Saiakangi Kohvik, located at Saiakang 3, 10146 Tallinn. I ate a ham and cheese omelet and an apple turnover that melted in my mouth.
Waking up to bright blue skies with wispy clouds made me decide to go to St. Nicholas’ church, which has an elevator up to a skydeck, for views. Originally built in the 13th century by German businessmen, it’s named after the patron saint of sailors and merchants. The building features Gothic style, identified by pointed arches, vaulted ceilings and intricate brickwork.
Inside is the Niguliste museum, known for its exquisite ecclesiastical art. You can buy the tickets from a machine or from a person inside the gift shop. The fee is 15 euros ($17.07 at the time of this writing) to enter, and this includes taking the elevator to the viewing platforms.
The church is also custodian of a famous painting dating back to the late 15th century, known as “Danse Macabre,” or “Dance with Death.” This notable work reflects on the themes of mortality and the temporary nature of life. A depiction of kings and queens and paupers dancing with skeletons is meant to remind us that whether you are powerful or come from nothing, in the end we all face death.
The prominent church tower, which stands at 124 meters (407 feet), was historically used as a lookout point. A small circular glass elevator, added in 2023, slowly makes its way up and down. The elevator skims along the inside of the tower and it’s fun to see the walls and art passing by as you ascend or descend. You can also walk between the four floors using the historic tower staircase, which has been restored. Magnificent views at the top.
On the second floor, a display of church bells included facts and history of each one. Did you know church bells are not allowed to be homeless?
I took additional time to sit in the sanctuary and admired more artwork and sculptures.
I exited through the church gift shop and ordered a Bolt to the Museum of Occupations and Freedoms. Real people on video shared their experiences during the 50 years of Russian occupation and subsequent freedom.
Ed next to the Estonian flags. This museum was sobering; reminded me of Holocaust museums I have visited in Jerusalem and D.C.
Next, I took a taxi to the KGB museum inside the Hotel Viru, where the KGB had offices during the Soviet control of the country. You need advance reservations for the tour. This was one of the first high rise hotels in Estonia, built to accommodate official visitors, celebrities and VIP tourists from the West. During the 1970’s and 80’s, it operated as a center of elite activity, offering tuxedo clad men and evening gowned women theater and opera, even while Russian bureaucrats were listening to every word they said.
How it looked back then.
Our tour guide took us into the secret KGB listening post, where we saw desks, old uniforms and electronic devices. He talked a lot and answered questions. We had plenty of time for photo ops and taking in the view.
I needed cheering up after visiting these museums, so I went to Chocolats de Pierre Cafe and opted for a slice of New York cheesecake with my hot chocolate. Amazing. Soothed the soul. Nap time.
I was meeting EP for dinner at 730pm at Ratasaevu 16. Miina had said this was a top restaurant, and she was again impressed that my Estonian expert secured a prime time reservation on a Sunday night.
EP and I ate our way through traditional dishes such as fish soup, pan fried white fish, braised elk roast, bread pudding studded with rhubarb accompanied by strawberry ice cream, salted caramel, and currants.
Fish Soup
Elk Roast
Estonians are proud of their leib bread - mostly rye fermented with sourdough
Dessert
We shared common experiences for three hours and then he walked me back to the hotel. I felt like we had become lifelong friends in one evening.
Spa day tomorrow!
Monday May 26
A driver picked me up at 10am to take me on a 20 minute ride to Elasmus Spa, renowned as Scandinavia’s largest spa and sauna complex. The website boasts an impressive array of 22 unique saunas (I didn’t count them), each with varying temperatures, along with numerous water features and relaxation areas plus a cafe. There’s a separate adults only section that you have to pay extra for. Robes, towels, and a locker are included, bring your own slippers/flip flops.
I discovered an outdoor terrace, a do it yourself draft beer station.
I snooped into the kids area, which was cute and not that crowded on a Monday morning.
Pool and whirlpools. Relaxing atmosphere.
Fell asleep in this cocoon after stuffing my face with shrimp dumplings and imbibing a glass of prosecco.
I stayed for 5 hours, including a one hour full body massage. My driver arrived on time to transport me back to reality.
Later, I took a taxi over to Miina’s place for a drink of Tallinn’s local liqueur, Vana Tallinn. Looked and tasted like brandy to me. She described it as a sweet, brown rum.
Ed was curious and wanted to sniff.
Miina intended to bring me to a nearby local pub for dinner, but sadly when we got there it was closed. We noticed an Italian restaurant across the street, inside the Park Inn by Radisson Meriton Conference & Spa Hotel Tallinn. Miina had never been so she couldn’t vouch for it, but we decided to take a chance.
The waitress was confused about the pricing and availability of certain items, so we stuck with a simple prosciutto pizza and caesar salads. Still, nothing to write home about. There was only one other diner in the place which should have been a clue.
Despite the mediocre food, we enjoyed our conversation. Then we walked to her favorite bakery that had late night discounts. We grabbed pastries for later and hugged goodbye. I hopped a Bolt back to my hotel.
Tuesday May 27
My sole mission today was to try a cinnamon bun reputed to be one of the best in Tallinn! I again skipped breakfast at the hotel and followed Google Maps back to the Rottermann District. I got in line at Rost bakery and scored a cinnamon bun PLUS a ham and cheese croissant with a cappuccino. Snagged a bar stool by the window to indulge in my goodies.
Intriguing boutiques beckoned afterward for souvenir shopping. Next, I went to the Pop and Contemporary Art museum. Superb. They had Andy Warhol, Keith Haring, Banksy among others.
I liked the “Pink Girl” girl power paintings by Katja Tukiainen, a Finnish artist.
Finding another burst of energy, I trekked back to Old Town and went to the KGB Prison Cell museum (different from the KGB Museum). This unassuming house in a neighborhood 10 minutes walk from my hotel was used as a notorious prison during the Soviet occupation. The small space had interactive features, such as the “closet used to torture prisoners” (you could have someone lock you inside) and the “interrogation chair” (you could sit in it).
Some prisoners never left this place alive.
OK. Enough war. Time for lunch.
One more thing on my Tallinn to-do list per EP - eat shrimp. Seafood is a notable part of Tallinn’s roots due to its location on the Gulf of Finland, and plays a role in Tallinn’s culinary history and present day scene. I perused the menu at Hell Hunt, a legendary watering hole on my route. They drew me in with a yummy sounding dish titled “beer braised prawns with garlic and chili.” I sat at the bar, ordered a delicious sweet beer, and savored my meal.
Nap time.
I decided to have tapas for dinner at Kaheska, another restaurant EP had recommended. I chatted with the friendly waitress and told her I was planning to go to Philly Joe’s Jazz Club after dinner. We looked at their website and she recognized the group playing the first set, a popular local band. She advised me I’d better get there sooner rather than later and brought my food in a timely manner.
Ed made some new friends.
A step out of my comfort zone – I had not gone to a jazz club by myself before! I hung up my coat on the rack. Standing room only already. I went to the bar and ordered a drink. Keeping my eye on some customers who seemed to be leaving, two bar stools opened up and I rushed toward one. I didn’t see any hosts or hostesses, so I presumed it was first come first serve. No one challenged me and another woman asked if the seat was open and sat beside me.
I grooved with the band and stayed until they finished their set. The next crew of musicians began to play, but I didn’t like their genre. I loved walking home when the sun is shining at 10pm. As the kids say, Tallinn, you owe me nothing! ❤️
Wednesday May 28
Leisurely breakfast this morning at the hotel. EP had arranged for a driver to pick me up at noon to go to the ferry terminal in Tallinn. Taking a boat ride to Helsinki to meet up with Sal!
Small hiccup – I wasn’t paying full attention but finally realized the driver was headed to the airport! I told him the correct destination and he turned around. Still plenty of time to catch the ship. Booked in business class for the 2 hour ride, I got to board early and store my luggage in a private lounge. Smooth sailing with a full buffet and open bar! Ooh la la!
Sailing into Helsinki from Tallinn
EP had a taxi driver waiting for me when I came off the boat ramp. We drove to the Crowne Plaza Hotel, about 20 minutes northwest. I arrived at the front desk the same time as Sal, who flew in from Scotland via London. Amazing serendipity!
And more - my Platinum status in IHG hotels got us upgraded to a club lounge floor room! The lounge is a private area, opened with your key card, offering continental breakfast, coffee and soft drinks, snacks. Wine and beer during happy hour.
We dropped off our luggage and went adventuring to find a meal. Levant, a Middle Eastern street food restaurant, fit the bill. I had chicken shwarma which was delicious. Plenty of veggie choices for Sal.
Back to the hotel for our first happy hour! The dining tables inside had a beautiful city view through large windows.
After drinks and snacks, we took a walk in a park across the street from our hotel. Interestingly, the sign said its name is Central Park, so I had to have a photo!
We were entranced by wildlife and scenic beauty.
Sal has to get up early tomorrow so we called it a night around 930pm. Excellent start to the second half of my trip in Country #84 Finland!
Thursday May 29
Sal had her conference presentation today. Non paying guests were not allowed to attend. I ate breakfast at the hotel (not great and it cost 32 euros!) and afterward walked to the Sibelius Monument. It is dedicated to Mr. Jean Sibelius (1865-1957), a Finnish composer and one of the most significant figures in classical music, particularly noted for his contributions to symphonic music.
Ed found some flowers to sniff in the park at the monument.
Then a quick stop at the Tram Museum because it was free and nearby.
Horses pulled the trams in the days before electricity.
Sal texted she was done for the day and we met up at the club lounge. She had nailed her presentation, putting her in the mood to celebrate! After happy hour, we strolled downtown, about 20 minutes, to eat at Zetor. Kitschy atmosphere and authentic Finnish food.
Friday May 30
Sal had reserved a 2 hour city tour for us at 11am, meeting at Senate Square. We were running behind and weren’t 100 percent sure of which tram to take, so we decided to order a Bolt. While some streets were pedestrian only, the driver got us close enough to the meeting point so we were only five minutes late. The tour guide was there giving out the historical information.
This tour had over 30 people, and the guide’s mic wasn’t very loud. At times I couldn’t hear him. I sat on a bench until we were directed to climb the stairs to Helsinki Cathedral, an iconic landmark at the top of Senate Square. Completed mid 19th century, it was originally built as a tribute to Tsar Nicolas I of Russia until Finland’s independence.
Helsinki Cathedral
You immediately notice that the church is not as ornate inside as most cathedrals you may have seen before. Why? It now serves as the Evangelical Lutheran cathedral of Helsinki, and as a religious belief, Lutheran churches usually avoid excessive ornamentation. The focus is on the Word (Bible) rather than images or decorations.
The University of Helsinki’s main building is right across the street.
Then we walked around the corner to the Bank of Finland. Founded in 1811, it’s the fourth oldest central bank in the world. In front of the bank is a statue of Johan Vilhelm Snellman (1806-1881), a statesman, philosopher, and the father of the Finnish markka (the former currency before the Euro). I love learning about banks since I was in that industry for over 30 years.
Next we walked along busy South Harbor, an inlet of the Gulf of Finland which leads to the Baltic Sea. Sightseeing boat trips and ferries to Suomenlinna and other islands leave from there.
A scheduled bathroom stop at South Harbor and time to order ice cream and soft drinks. Full sun and no hat had made me thirsty so I stood in line to buy water. I loved seeing the residents using a swimming pool and sauna built next to the Baltic sea. Sal thought jumping into the ocean to cool off with boats going by could be dangerous. Guess others decided to take the risk.
Our guide pointed out the Presidential Palace (doesn’t look like a palace to me), and the Uspenski Eastern Orthodox cathedral. This cathedral wasn’t included on the tour (it has an entrance fee), but he said was worth coming back if you have time.
Where the President of Finland lives.
Uspenski Cathedral
We walked through Market Square and Esplanade Park. I noticed a couple of shops I wanted to check out later.
Next we were guided through a cool mini mall called Kluvvi with more architectural mastery. Steel beams and glass elevators.
The tour ended at the Central Library. Our guide told us the complex had two restaurants and public restrooms. We decided to test out lunch at Oodi on the ground floor. Smart move. All you can eat – soup, salad, bread, water, hot buffet -for one reasonable price of $16. A majorly friendly cashier put big smiles on both our tired faces.
Central Library
After lunch we walked to the street to catch a Bolt. Sal had made reservations for us at Loyly spa at 2:30pm. Situated on the Hernesaari waterfront about 1.24 miles (2 km) from the city center, Loyly is arguably Helsinki’s most famous modern public sauna and spa experience. The crowds confirmed that the spa is officially on the map.
A tiny locker room struggled to hold all the half naked women as we showered and dressed or undressed. Swimsuits on and ready to break free, Sal and I tried out each of the saunas - smoke, wood burning and continuously heated. I stayed no longer than 5 minutes per sauna, and maybe less in the one that had a huge step to reach the sitting level. (I wasn’t the only one who fell.) Walking from sauna to sauna also posed risks: (warning signs said be careful of slippery wet floors).
A stunningly scenic view, 70 degree temperature and comfy looking lounge chairs lured me to the terrace. I let Sal know. She worried I would be bored while she did the circuit a few times, but au contraire, I was in my happy place. A contemplative tableaux, sunny skies, ocean waves, a bar. A perfect beach day. I implored her to keep sauna-ing and I’d come and take pictures the next time she jumped into the sea.
I purchased a glass of champagne at the bar and found myself a lookout point. Incredible vistas no matter which way I turned. In front of me and to the right, the Baltic Sea headed to the North Sea to the Atlantic Ocean.
To my left, the skyline of Helsinki.
Behind me, even the sauna buildings showed off cutting edge architecture. I felt like I was an extra in Crazy Rich Asians, wearing a designer swimsuit coverup to see and be seen in. Cute, young scantily clad Brits and Germans shared in my experience.
Sal was ready for her fifth and final dip in the Baltic Sea so I headed over to capture the moment.
Here is the gently sloped ladder that you walk down.
I dipped my toe in but as I suspected, too cold for me.
We changed into our clothes and stayed to have a bite at the spa restaurant. Restaurant Loyly serves modern Nordic cuisine and drinks. I wasn’t thrilled with the food even though it got good reviews. The burrata salad description lied. Sure, a lump of fresh mozzarella cheese smashed down lettuce struggling under a heavy balsamic drizzle. But where were the cherry tomatoes, onions, cucumber, olives? Croutons made the substitution, if I had to guess.
The sweet potato fries came with jalapeños and feta cheese which on second thought, was just too weird a combination. Ed did not approve. We ate enough to stave off starvation and decided to eat somewhere else near the hotel later.
About 8pm we went for a walk and ended up at Green Hippo, Sandelsinkatu 2, 00260. https://www.greenhippocafe.rocks/menu
It had a casual and cozy atmosphere where you order at the counter and get a number to take back to your table. The kitchen offered chicken, pasta, salads, vegetarian and vegan choices. I loved the edamame but the pasta was overcooked. I know, picky picky.
Ed and I not doing the happy food dance today.
Saturday May 31
Today I had a cappuccino in the club lounge along with some strawberries and a croissant I bought at a K-Market store on the way home from Green Hippo last night. Sal’s conference ended at 1130am, and our plan was to catch the ferry to Suomenlinna, a popular sea fortress located on an archipelago off the coast of Helsinki. It’s the number one attraction on Tripadvisor so neither of us wanted to miss out.
You can purchase a public transit ticket of 3.20 Euros one way for the twenty minute ride (or you can use a day pass). You must buy your ticket in advance (machines available) because the gates won’t open to let you on without it.
Suomenlinna is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its historical significance and well-preserved structures. The fortress was built in the mid-18th century by the Swedish as a defense against Russian expansion. People live in the residential buildings, with lots of signs to warn you against trespassing. We wandered the grounds, discovering churches, cafes, gift shops with hand crafted art. Birds serenaded us and we admired the water views.
While I rested, Sal peeked inside Vesikko, Finland’s only surviving submarine, restored as a museum in 1973. Inside, you can explore the torpedo room, command center, bunks and engine room. Her comment on the experience was “I couldn’t imagine living in those tight quarters under the ocean.”
We stayed 3 hours, including lunch at Bastion Bistro. The menu is described as “uncomplicated but high-quality bistro food.” We had fries, salad and strawberry crepes. Yummy.
Service lagged but we didn’t care, enjoying the balmy, breezy day on the terrace. Luckily, when we were ready to head back, there was a short line for the ferry.
After leaving the ship, we decided eating gelato should be the next activity. The tour guide had shared Finns eat more ice cream per person than any other country in Europe, and they’ve perfected the task of making artisanal frozen delights. Surprising fact for a country where the temperature can dip down to minus 58 degrees. We did a quick search on Google Maps and beelined toward La Gelateria in the Old Market Hall. Sal selected pistachio and white sesame and I played it boring with lemon and vanilla.
We caught a Bolt to the hotel and stopped in at happy hour for a drink, then rested before dinner. Neither of us felt like walking far, so we chose a Korean BBQ restaurant 3 blocks away. We decided not to cook the meat ourselves and ordered bibimbap bowls. The waitress appeared every time we needed her, and the food was chop stick lickin’ good. Flavorful sauce, fresh ingredients. The workers were chatty and liked that I am from NYC.
Sal is heading back to Scotland tomorrow morning. 🙁 Here's a fun photo we took with the Helsinki sign.
I’m staying until June 4.
Sunday June 1
After breakfast, I left my luggage with the front desk and we checked out of the Crowne Plaza. We parted ways at the Kiasma Art Museum. Sal continued on to the train station to catch a ride to the airport. It was so good spending time with her.
Central Railway Station (we had stopped by earlier).
Kiasma, the Museum of Contemporary Art in Helsinki (Cost: 13 Euros Senior, 23 Euros adult), is known for its innovative architecture and diverse collection of contemporary art. I agree – the exhibitions displayed some of the most unique art I have ever seen. I will always remember the larger than life size balloon sculptures based on diagrams of the molecular structure of petro-chemicals. They hung like patio mobiles over the museum floor, but were meant to represent both the formation of oil deep underground and humanity’s fateful dependence on oil.
Deep Fate by Kuwaiti artist Monira Al Qadiri
I also had the surreal experience of walking through a cloth sculpture of a human’s intestines - “Shelly’s Digestive Tract”- by artist Dafna Maimon.
Another fun interactive exhibit Ed and I went into.
Across the street is Amos Rex Museum, which focuses on contemporary and experimental art. (Cost: Senior 15 Euros Adult 22 Euros.)
Entrance to Amos Rex Museum underground.
There, I participated in an exhibit called Expanding Empathies, by Enni-Kukka Tuomala. You enter into the Empathy Echo Chamber, an enclosed aluminum tube, with a stranger, and stare into each other’s eyes for two minutes. Then you have twenty minutes to share the answers to a list of questions given to you when you enter. It’s described as an intimate guided experience of shared reflection.
When I entered the darkened exhibition room, the tube’s design intrigued me and I stepped closer. It looked like a big silver pillow with twinkly lights inside. The staff woman turned toward me and asked if I spoke English. Yes, I said. “Would you be interested to go in? The gentleman over there has been waiting for someone who speaks English. He’s American too.” I’m in an adventurous mood so I say sure!
She recited all the necessary actions and precautions. Remove your shoes, here’s the list of questions, don’t look at them until we give the word. You can unzip the tube and leave anytime if you feel uncomfortable. When the lights go off, it’s time to exit.
You sit on stools a foot apart facing each other. Staring into a stranger’s eyes for 2 minutes is spellbinding. You notice things about the other person. You wonder how they feel playing this crazy game. The focus is not on yourself.
The 2 minute alert arrives, the lights inside brighten and it’s time to read the questions. Here’s one I remember: tell each other where you feel seen in your life, and where you don’t. Nick and I had an amazing amount in common. We laughed and commiserated together for the full 20 minutes, exchanging personal observations. This experience is definitely a step in the right direction toward expanding empathies.
Even the gift shop had some wacky things for sale.
Would YOU wear this coat?
A dress for a gala?
Ed wanted this smiley face plate but I didn't think it would travel home well.
I went back to K-Market and made a salad at the buffet; ate it sitting outside. Next, took a Bolt to The Church on the Rock, also known as Temppeliaukio Church, another notable architectural landmark. The church is renowned for its unique design, which incorporates natural rock formations into its structure.
Check in time for my new digs. Grabbed my luggage from Crowne Plaza and hopped a cab to Hotel Indigo Helsinki (also IHG brand)(closer to downtown)(3 nights cost $622 as of the time of this newsletter).
Nap time and then dinner at Sea Horse, established in 1930, famous for its traditional Finnish cuisine and cozy atmosphere. I was treated well as a solo diner, and the waitress even took a photo of me and Ed the Explorer. The food was incredible.
After dinner I walked to what is known as the prettiest street in Helsinki and took photos at dusk. Huvilakatu, in the Ullanlinna district, just south of the city center. Busy and fun day!!
Monday June 2
Today I met Riikka, my guide in Helsinki, at 10am after a decent breakfast in the hotel (not included in the price). We walked around the Design District and looked at stores filled with clothes and jewelry. Beautiful pieces very expensive prices. It started to rain so we got on the tram and ended up at a shoe shop called Minna Minna where I bought a (not cheap) pair of shoes.
We had lunch at Cafe Engel, then Riikka suggested a scenic tram ride through a different neighborhood to Rams Roasters for a cinnamon bun and hot chocolate for dessert.
After finishing our treats, I easily navigated public transport to the hotel for nap time. Riikka would be cooking for me at her place later on that evening (yes, this was all included in my tour price!). I took a taxi over and chatted with Riikka's niece Lumi who wanted to practice her English while Riikka finished up in the kitchen. We had traditional Finnish food of: bread with a white sauce with shrimp and dill, herring, perch with cream and lemon sauce, and vanilla ice cream topped with blueberry sauce for dessert. Yum. We shared life experiences and enjoyed hanging out for over 3 hours.
Wednesday June 3
I slept late and had breakfast in my room - coffee and a chocolate/cream cheese muffin I stockpiled yesterday at Rams Roasters. My tour of the Parliament of Finland didn’t start until noon. Luckily, I allowed extra time, because my Bolt driver was clueless on where to drop me off. Sal and I had walked by the building several times so I knew to go around the corner to the entrance.
My tour group cleared security and produced our passports. Had to ditch the coats and bags in lockers. This building is architecturally stunning! Inside are amazing staircases, sculptures and mosaics.
Ed the Explorer snuck in and found a photo op.
The Plenary Session Hall is unique for having nude sculptures which symbolize civic virtue, democracy, and the Finnish people.
This mosaic reflects Finland's maritime heritage.
The piece de resistance of the Parliament is a “paternoster lift” - a type of continuously moving, door-less elevator with a chain of open compartments that loop up and down. You just step on or off as it slowly moves past each floor. Only members could ride it. We watched a guy go up and he smiled at us. Wonder who he was and which electoral district he represented.
When the tour ended, I crossed the street for a photo from the Oodi library terrace offering a different view of the Parliament Building.
Next Stop: Uspenski Cathedral, the largest Orthodox church in Western Europe. This imposing structure symbolizes the status of the Orthodox Church in Finland and its historical ties to Russia.
Uspenski Cathedral was built between 1862 and 1868, when Finland was an autonomous Grand Duchy under the Russian Empire and Russian influence shaped Helsinki’s development. Today it functions both as an active church and a major tourist attraction.
The building is a classic example of Russian Revival / Neo-Byzantine architecture. You’ll first see the red brick exterior with elaborate decorative details as you climb up, and once you pay the entrance fee, you can explore the rich interior filled with eye catching head swiveling delights.
This style contrasts sharply with the white neoclassical Lutheran Helsinki Cathedral I visited earlier in my visit. Western European influences.
I walked back to the hotel via Esplanade Park and Market Square. Browsed in those stores I had put on my radar earlier, had crepes for lunch then nap time!
Walked to the Stockmann department store and bought a few snacks in their humongous grocery store for the flight. People were outside in cafes enjoying the spring like weather.
Dinner at Boulevard Bar and Seafood restaurant right down the street from my hotel.
My non stop flight back to JFK became a casualty in the Finnair strike scheduled for tomorrow. I got rebooked on Finnair from Helsinki to Chicago and then must transfer to United into LaGuardia. Boo. 😒 At least I was departing on the same day I had planned on going home.
Thursday June 4
Had to check out by noon, no late check out available. My flight back wasn’t until 5:15pm. I left my suitcase at the front desk and walked across the street to have brunch at Cafe Ekberg, the oldest cafe in Helsinki.
After eating, I grabbed a taxi from the hotel and headed to the airport, about a 25-minute ride. I thought these lounge chairs at the airport were super cool! Of course, one didn’t become open while I was waiting.
Ed said goodbye to the Moomins.
We took off on time to Chicago, and I didn’t lose my upgrade to premium economy. The chicken, rice and salad meal was edible. I had a pleasant seatmate.
Changing terminals after going through customs in O’Hare got on my last nerve, as I expected. Even with a two-hour connection time I reached the gate with only 20 minutes to spare. Plus, because I hadn’t been able to choose a seat assignment, I ended up sandwiched into the dreaded middle seat in the last row on the flight to LaGuardia. Luckily the flight is only two hours long. Traffic was ridiculous coming home at midnight (construction) and it took an hour! Final thoughts? I loved both of these countries and would definitely go back and see more!